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Note: Barry kindly submitted this article as an 8 page PDF file, complete with pics. This page is just a brief sample. For the full story - with better formatting - see his PDF file here: DoculamCovering.pdf

Introduction:

Doculam, or to give it its correct name, Document Laminating Film, is a thin clear plastic film with a heat activated glue applied to one side. It's used to cover paper and especially cardboard to give it that glossy appearance. It can come in many thicknesses and surface finishes. I use films that are approximately 30 microns thick. Glossy Doculam can be used to cover framework where you want to leave the airframe visible after covering. It can actually be seen easily enough in flight, even if the model is completely see-through.

For painted finishes, a matt finished Doculam is preferred, as the paint sticks better to it. This material is called “Soft Touch” laminating film. Paint sticks to it brilliantly, without using vinegar and wire wool to “key” the surface and accept paint like the gloss Doculam needs.

The one thing that working with Doculam needs is an Iron that can work at higher temperatures. I typically use between 150 Degrees C, and 250 Degrees C to work with and shrink Doculam. I modified a digital temperature controlled soldering iron to do the job, by making a solid brass iron shoe for the end. This modified Iron can be seen in this photo… I use this for covering and shrinking all my models in Doculam.

Using the Doculam:

Tooling:

I always begin covering by having the following tools handy to use… Sharp scissors, scalpel with a new blade to cut the film. Tweezers to help with working the film. Sharpie marker pen to mark the film to aid cutting. Steel rule to assist working the film and of course measurement. The aforementioned Iron should be placed where it can be easily used and set down safely when working with the model. Good lighting is also a must, as clear film can be difficult to see at times.

Covering:

To begin covering, first cut a piece of Doculam thats slightly oversize compared to the piece to be covered. See photo...

Begin attaching the film by tacking the film in place at the 4 “corners” of the framework, then half the distance between these tacks, and add another spot tack there until the film is completely attached all round the edges. Keep the film tight as possible while doing this to ensure less shrinking is needed for the final finish...

... see the full PDF file here: DoculamCovering.pdf

User comments

Just saw Barry Scollay's excellent article on Doculam. My experience is similar to his. I love Doculam, have used it almost exclusively since about 2016. There are a few major advantages to point out. First of all, it's cheaper than dirt, so cheap that I've used it as masking film and then just threw it away. It's easy to apply, if you can use MonoKote, you won't have a problem with Doculam. Did I mention it's cheap? Less than a few cents per foot.
I use a regular MonoKote iron, temp about 300 degrees to shrink it, less to stick it in place. It shrinks a little more than MonoKote but no much, will stretch around curves if you heat it while stretching. I like to cover an entire wing, both sides, then shrink it with a heat gun, the small kind like used for MonoKote. By shrinking a little at a time, you avoid warps. Keep the gun moving to avoid burning holes. You can go over again with the iron.
MonoKote letters work well, or any other iron on covering. Use low heat, enough to stick it but not shrink. Print out your letters with any word processor you have, whatever size and font. Tape your MonoKote down to a board, then tape the paper letter sheet on top. Be sure to remove the MonoKote backing film. Cut thru both layers with a #11 blade and you're done. I prefer the font, Amarillousaf because it has all straight lines, no curves, can use a straightedge to cut. Font can be found online. Free. Never use scissors. Font came from a USAF tech order on how to paint military airplanes. You can make your own decals using decal paper from EBAY. Use the WHITE, not clear. Did I say Doculam is cheap?
Now we come to its only fault, it only comes in clear, that means you need to paint it. While it works just as well water clear, it's a bit hard to see at altitude. I use spray can Rustoleum, one thin coat. Wipe it with alcohol before paint to remove fingerprints. Be SURE to wait until condensation is dry before painting, will cause bubbles if wet, Ask me how I know. I usually paint wings and tail one color and fuselage another, avoids masking, paint peeling. ANY tape will pull the paint off. I have used stick-on shelf paper for masking but you have to be careful. Some brands may work better.
For those of you who live in the US, here is where I got my Doculam. Oregon Laminations.com. The roll I used is 25" x 500' 1" Hot Roll Laminating Film. Item # is #R1.5m25x500x1. Thickness is 1.5 mil, which is the thinnest. It comes two rolls to a box but they will sell you just one if you change the amount to 1 roll. Do NOT order any thicker film, doesn't shrink well. 1.5 mil ONLY. 500 feet will last you a Loooonng time, may be better to share with a few others. It's available in widths as small as 9" if you don't need wider rolls. Give it a try, actually greater than sliced bread. See pix of some of my airplanes covered with Doculam and painted with Rustoleum. I did tell you it's cheap, didn't I?
Doug Smith - 07/12/2024
Other options for doculam. You can also use self adhesive coverings over doculam such as sign vinyl to make your own decals/trims. A vinyl wrap like they do on cars etc? You can paint the airframe structure and keep the covering clear. And of course for that vintage look you can apply tissue or even silk/nylon using traditional dope or water based varnish.
MartinHogdson - 07/12/2024
Is Doculam nitro fuel or even diesel fuel proof without adding any additional finish?
David Lentz - 09/12/2024
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