Nomad. Radio control sport model for 30 - 48 engines. A 'suitcase' style model that folds and packs away for easy transport.
Quote: "THE ORIGINAL IDEA for this project was born, like many ideas, from a sense of necessity. Having been flying models for about four years I had been bitten by the bug so much that whenever I went without flying for much more than a week I would get withdrawal symptoms. So, a couple of years ago - when I was trying to find a use for a pair of old (unused) foam wings, I hatched this design. 'Design' is not really accurate as it was cobbled together as it went. The main criteria, in order of importance were:
1. To be transportable in ordinary holiday luggage.
2. 4-stroke powered mainly for low noise but also for low running costs.
3. Sport/aerobatic/first low-winger type flying characteristics.
4. In order to keep to a reasonable weight any 'special' bits to perform at least two functions if possible.
5. To be as large as possible within the above parameters.
6. To look reasonable (so that not too many people would find the whole thing laughable!).
7. Inexpensive to build (except, perhaps, for the engine).
All these criteria have been satisfied. If you are still interested then read on.
Fuselage. Apart from the hinging but in the middle, the fuz is a straightforward sheet-sided affair with half inch triangular longerons. It also utilises three former/bulkheads, call 'em what you like. Thin ply doublers are used in the front section, the rearmost ends of which form the main joining tongue between the two halves.
Study the plans carefully as it is not immediately obvious how the joint works. Basically, the rear end of the front section doubler fits into a narrow slot formed in the rear section by the 1/32 ply spacer/doubler and the 1/8in ply 'trebler'. This trebler stops the tongue from distorting if placed under any stress. The removable rear wing-band dowel locks the tongue in the slot. The hinge keeps the top of the fuz together.
The hole for the dowel is drilled after the hinge is fitted and with the fuz held in the flying position. Using a straight edge/splint on the top while drilling the dowel holes will ensure that the incidences are preserved. The front dowel is also removable. Both dowels must be a tight fit.
The fuz is built over the plan as usual, but the fore and aft sections, although built at the same time, are kept separate. Make sure that you build a left and a right side.
If you feel that a bit more room in the fuz would be handy then the height could be increased by, perhaps, 1/2 in but watch the weight increase. The formers are glued in using a square to ensure that you don't reinvent the banana. Top and bottom sheeting is then added. Carve the whole thing down around the triangular longerons to a semi-rounded shape..."
Nomad, RCM&E, September 1988
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Article pages, thanks to RFJ.
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