Spinks Akromaster (oz9908)

About this Plan

Spinks Akromaster. Control line semi-scale stunt model. Designed by Ray Borden, for .35 to .40 power.

Quote: "The 'real' Spinks has almost classic CL stunt proportions and the model flies well with only slight deviations from scale. The author used an old Fox 29 for sport flying, but a .35 would be a better choice for more serious efforts.

There are some airplanes that simply must be modeled; they have the right lines, good proportions, colorful paint jobs, and a lot of character. In short, they grab you. I got grabbed back about ten years ago when I read an article, complete with 3-view, on the Spinks Akromaster. The thing looked just like a control line stunt job - so why not build it for precisely that purpose? That's what I did, and what you see here is the result.

A glance at the plan will show you that this is an easy model to build. There's nothing fancy about it; in fact, it might even be considered a bit old-fashioned when compared with the current generation of super-slick foam-winged thingies. But it flies well, and the addition of such niceties as adjustable leadouts and adjustable tip weight would assist in fine tuning.

I didn't go to great lengths to keep the weight down. I selected reasonably good wood without resorting to super-light contest grades and ended up with a ship that weighs 48 ounces. Lighter wood, built-up flaps, and a minimum of glue would cut the weight down some, but I'm perfectly satisfied with the way this airplane performs in Sunday afternoon fun flying - which is what most of us do anyway. In fact, the original was powered by an ancient Fox 29, which pulled it around in a respectable manner. A newer 35 should be all the power you'll ever need.

The wing is built in two panels. Jig-block the lower spar over the plan with its outboard end raised 5/32in. Glue the ribs at the spacing of the plan with all the ribs vertical. Jig the leading and trailing edges level with the plan and glue them to the ribs. Remove the panel from the plan and repeat the procedure for the opposite panel, except rib #1 must be positioned upside down so the bellcrank mount notch will be at the bottom when the panel is flipped to the other side. Sand the trailing edge of each panel to its taper, and glue leading and trailing edge sheet to both top and bottom. Trim and sand the root ribs square and butt-join the panels. Glue in the bellcrank mount and its 3/16" square braces; when dry, install bellcrank, leadout, and pushrod. Add the center sheet and slot the trailing edge for flap hinges. Cut and fit the flaps and horn but don't install permanently yet. Complete the tips, including leadout guides.

The fuselage sides should be matched and of medium-light stock. Cut both sides and add doublers (being sure to have right and left side assemblies). Cut the plywood bulkheads #1 through #3 and balsa formers for #4 through #7. Fabricate #4 through #6 over the plan with the formers and 3/16 square as shown..."

Note this is a low resolution plan.

Supplementary file notes

Article, thanks to vergina123.

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