Curtiss Robin. Radio control scale model. Wingspan 61-1/2in, weight 5lb. Scale is 1/8. For .45 power.
Quote: "Every modeler has to have some reason to build a particular miniature aircraft. Maybe he was just looking through a magazine and a beautiful colored picture of a full scale aircraft catches his eye. So he decides to make a model of it, Could be he even had a ride in a certain ship when he was a kid and it still sticks in his mind. He can recreate the old feeling to a satisfying extent by making an R/C replica of it and seeing it lift off once again to his own command.
Nostalgia is my reason. I never had a ride in a full scale Robin and colored pictures were not around when I was a kid. That's a give-away on my age, but I do remember my brother getting started building models when Lindbergh flew over Paris in 1927. Of course I followed suit and it wasn't long after he built a Curtiss Robin and it won 1st place. It was on display in one of the banks in downtown Patterson, New Jersey. I can't remember much more of the details, but the plane stuck in my mind all these years. It has certain lines about it that turns me on. (Just as I said previously, every modeler has to have a reason.)
Another temptation for drawing up the plans and building one was Lou Perretti's (Aerotec Model Engineering Inc) club held a 'Golden Era' contest last year and I didn't have a plane to enter, so what better excuse could I have to finally sit down and work out the details for a Curtiss Robin R/C in the 1-1/2" scale size. The first thought was, it would be an easy model to throw together, a square box fuselage, constant chord wing, an easily built up stab and fin and rudder, similar to the old rubber band Free-Flight days.
It's not as easy as it sounds. And as I progressed, the problems mounted. I had better state now, if you are going to build the Robin as per the plans one item necessary is a Prestolite tank and torch to handle what I call the hard silver solder joints. There is a low melting point of the silver solder by J.W. Harris Co. 'Stay Brite' used with a regular soldering iron, sold at hobby shops. It is very good for other connections that don't require as much strength. There was a miniature welding outfit advertised in the magazines a while back that I'm sure would do the job also. Like all modelers, where there's a will, there's a way, so no matter what method you will use, the final necessities should come out about the same.
Fuselage Construction. Start by forming the two lower longerons and I suggest you over-bend them after wetting as they will spring back a little when dry. Make a left and right side as mast cross-braces are recessed so the covering material will not adhere to them, except along the window and door outlines. As stated on the plans, the door is on the right side only. Recess cross-bracing when joining the two sides as necessary. Rough shape the wing center-section balsa block and glue in place. This will take final shape when the wing is finished and mounted. You will now have a Curtiss Robin body without a nose section on it. Make two aluminum gussets and drill a series of holes where they come in contact with the longerons and braces... "
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