No Frills (oz9776)
About this Plan
No Frills. Free flight power model.
Quote: "A contest-winning F1J duration power design from one of Britain's top power fliers.
When the 1/2A power model class, which had been traditionally powered by TD .049 motors, was replaced by the International FU class, allowing motors of up to .061 cubic inches (1 cc), it was a new challenge to me and in a way, a relief.
The quality of the TD motors had appeared to decline over the years, and they could be troublesome to operate. We could now use the AD .06 , a beautifully made, easy to operate, and powerful motor. It was obvious that a bigger model would now be required, and this design was conceived around a 300 square inch wing. Experience has shown that this is probably the smallest size that should be used with the AD .06.
The design was deliberately kept as simple and light as possible, the theory being that a light weight would result in a competitive model, without having to resort to any aerodynamic subtleties. I recommend the use of a bladder type fuel system. Once the motor is set, it is extremely reliable, easy to operate and, above all, light.
Construction: Putting everything together is very simple, and, with a lot of detail covered on the plan. Only those parts that may be unfamiliar will be covered here. It is a good idea to build and cover the wings and tail first, to allow the structures time to settle. The wings are built as four separate panels, by laying down the leading edges, trailing edges, bot-tom spars and straight ribs, then adding the diago-nal ribs as over-depth blanks. Accurate aluminium templates are then fastened to the building board at the end of each panel, and the upper profile is sanded to section, using a length of aluminium 'T' bar, with sandpaper attached with double sided tape.
This is followed by gluing in the vertical webbing, joining the panels and finally adding the top spar, which locks everything together. The scrap carbon fibre sheet dihedral braces are necessary for the very strong joint that is required between the two centre panels. Doped tissue covering is necessary to provide sufficient rigidity with this type of structure on a fast climbing model. Do not forget the split dowel locators, or you will never achieve a consistent trim.
The fuselage is a simple one-piece tube, made from one layer of 200 grams per square metre carbon fibre cloth formed around a suitable sized mandrel (a snooker cue, or made to measure by Joe Maxwell). Alternatively, Ray Monks can supply ready-made tubes. The motor mounting system shown does require access to a lathe for the turned metal parts and, in the case of the AD .06, some screwcutting to produce the flanged back-plate. of course, a beam mounting system could be just as easily devised, or one of the many small commercial mounts employed. Just make sure that it is rigid and light. A simple sheet balsa box, or box grafted on to a carbon A2 boom, would produce an alternative fuselage.
The plan shows an 'old style' VIT version, and a bunt version. Both can be made to fly well. Do not be frightened by 'bunt' power models. They are easier to trim than 'VIT' models, although it is essential to have a powerful, reliable motor, as the model must be pointing vertically when it bunts. I hope this terminology makes sense, as of course a bunt model has a VIT anyway.
If flying with a less powerful motor, I would suggest the 'old style VIT version, with an increase in the left tip wash out to 3/32 inch. The various rear end functions are all powered by stretched 25 lb breaking strain monofilament. Approximately 3/8 - 1/2 inch stretch to hook the lines on to the timer arms seems about right.
Flying: Be absolutely sure that all flying surfaces are flat, apart from the wash out in the left wing tip. Also that all the mechanisms work 100%, every time, before attempting to fly. Initial test glides should be made, obviously, with tail and rudder at approximate glide positions, and adjusted until a slow floating glide with a hint of right turn is achieved. Then set the tail and rudder to approximate power settings, which will typically be a small amount of left rudder, and the tail trailing edge approximately 3/32 inch down from the glide setting.The model should then be 'thrown' very hard and level, and, if the settings are near correct, this will result in a straight and level trajectory until the speed falls off and the model will dive and turn slightly left..."
Scan from DBHL, cleanup by theshadow.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 02/06/2019: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
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