Miles M.20 (oz9567)
About this Plan
Miles M.20. Control line sport-scale aerobatic model for 1.5cc engines.
Scan from DBHL, cleanup by theshadow.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 21/10/2023: Added article, thanks to Robin Lewis.
Quote: "The Nine Week Wonder! Semi-scale stunter is ideal for 1.5cc engines. Miles M20, by Noel Stephenson.
Searching around for a successor to my Spitfire series (published in Aeromodeller, March '87) I chanced upon a small three-view drawing of the Miles M20. This aircraft, proposed as an economy fighter, was slightly slower than the Spitfire MkII, but faster than the Hurricane. It carried more armament and fuel than either of its famous contemporaries and was constructed largely from non-strategic materials. In the event, Spitfire and Hurricane production was sufficient for the RAF's needs and output of the M20 was confined to two prototypes.
The design is a natural for a model, with a huge chin radiator to hide the largest engine, a simple, thick, straight-tapered wing and generously large wheels on a wide-track fixed undercarriage. A quick session on the drawing board showed that stretching the design (a la Al Rabe) did not lose the essential 'flavour' of the prototype, so the design was completed along the same lines as the little Spitfires. I'm sure that I could have made the model more simple and probably lighter, but I do like to be able to get to all the 'works'. My experience is that if anything is made inaccessible then it will automatically go wrong and require surgery to rectify.
Like the Spitfires, this is not a model for the beginner to building (although it has proved a pussycat to fly) so anybody contemplating this one should get a few simple scratch-builts into the air first. Consequently, I'll not insult your intelligence with a detailed account of construction, but will confine myself to a general outline of the building sequence with a little more detail for the trickier bits. So, on to the building board!
Construction: Work is started by cutting out all the parts (I find this is most therapeutic). The engine bearers/ply joining plate and formers F1 and F2 are assembled using 24-hour epoxy (Araldite) and set aside to cure. The side assemblies of fuselage sides, Mirralyte doublers and former locating strips are then completed (remembering, of course, to make one left and one right!). The engine and 1/8 packing pieces (I used brass) are fitted to the bearers, the mounting holes drilled and anchor nuts epoxied in position. The engine and packs are then removed and, following a dry fit to ensure everything is square and straight, the fuselage sides are epoxied to the bearer assembly. The locater strips fit into the slots in F1 and F2 and snugly against the engine bearers, thus ensuring a good register of the sides with the bearer assembly.
F8 is now positioned at the rear of the sides and cyanoed to the locator strips only. The other formers are positioned on the strips and cyanoed in position. After track-glueing a piece of scrap 1/8 sheet in the tailplane position the upper and lower keels (lower keel with tailwheel assembly attached) may be fitted, the fuselage sides eased to the curve of the formers and cyanoed (if you've used the proper grade, damping should not be necessary). F1A and F2A are fitted, the fuselage upper decking completed and the top nose block glued in position. Assemble the lower cowl and tack-glue in position. Fit the tail block.
Now sand the whole thing to shape. Take great care around the front of the cowl, ensuring that the air intake is properly formed - get this wrong and you'll be plagued with an overheating engine. Separate the cowl, fit the cowl hook and retainer. Install the engine and packing pieces and trim the cowl inside to give ample room around the engine..."
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