Pipsqueak (oz8813)

About this Plan

Pipsqueak. Radio control sport model, for Cox Tee Dee .020 power.

Quote: "Along with the .010 and .020 engines has come the small 'backyard' R/C model. Experience gained with Styro-Mite (oz7103) indicated that the weight factor for an .020 job is not nearly as important as it is for the smaller .010 engine.

After many successful flights with this little .010 Styro-Mite, I mounted a Tee-Dee .020 on it. The results were fantastic! The first flight was a fly-away. Not just a plain old radio failure fly-away either. It left my hand like a hi-start glider. Keeping the plane over the field was quite a chore. To be honest I wasn't exactly flying her - I guess you might say she was flying me. But I had the little beast in sight and up wind, worth an A-for-effort in any league.

Then the engine cut coming out of a left turn and the rudder failed to neutralize completely. Little ole heaven-bent Styro-Mite pulled up in a tight left spiralling climb and disappeared. She was returned to me about two weeks later, still in good shape, with the escapement rubber band completely wound out.

Back home with the help of a voltmeter, the real culprit was uncovered. Low voltage caused by a loose battery fit in the battery box made the escapement chatter and skip, unwinding the rubber with sickening speed.

Subsequent flights with normal voltage, 3 degrees added downthrust and the prop on backwards, Styro-Mite became quite a mild tempered performer. But why waste power? Why not a design to handle the full power of the .02? The results? "Pipsqueak," a pretty model (so I'm prejudiced).

I obtained one of the first Otarion model 0-21 tone receivers and Polk's provided an Otarion #2705 toggle switch. To these light-weights I added a Citizen-Ship SN escapement for faster response and to gain the extra commands available with this type over a compound with its limited-length escapement rubber. Two Eveready #904 bat-teries and an Acme #913 battery box complete the radio set-up for a substantial sav-ing in weight.

The lighter equipment was purposely off-set in the form of sturdier construction and a tricycle gear. Even so, all-up flying weight of Pipsqueak is only 12 ounces. Sig balsa was used throughout. I would not recommend anything over 15 ounces without adding area (via a straight wing instead of the tapered one shown). Stick close to the grade and sizes of balsa noted, flying weight and balance point should come out about right.

That tapered wing is strictly for appearance. Start by cutting accurate templates of center and tip ribs from 1/16 plywood. Cut eight 3/4 x 7 inch strips from medium sheet 1/16 balsa. Pin strip 'block' together with plywood template on each side. Carve and sand excess balsa for straight taper from template to template. Use sharp blade and straight edge to make necessary cuts for leading edge, spars and bottom trailing edge. For other wing half follow same procedure.

Wing is built in halves. Pin bottom trailing edge strip and bottom spar flat on bench. Cement ribs in place. Add leading edge, top trailing edge piece, top spar. Dihedral brace, full depth, requires center and adjacent ribs be cut to accept it. Cement brace to both spars, allow sufficient time for all joints to dry. Other wing half is built directly onto the first. Tip up partially completed half to provide correct dihedral angle; with brace flat on the bench, glue bottom spar to it. Proceed as for first half..."

Pipsqueak from American Modeler, April 1962.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

Article pages, thanks to RFJ.

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