Interstate L-6 Grasshopper (oz8576)

About this Plan

Interstate L-6 Grasshopper. Scale cabin model for rubber power.

Quote: "Interstate Grasshopper, by Alfred Cleave.

PRESENTED HERE in model form is Interstate's latest product officially designated as the L-6. In appearance the L-6 seems to have been developed from the lightplane known as the 'Cadet'. The most prominent differences in design are the changed shape of the cowling and the added windows which give excellent visibility from either seat.

The model was designed for good flight characteristics and simple construction; therefore, several details which do not contribute to the flying qualities have been omitted.

Begin constructing the fuselage by pinning the 3/32 square lon-gerons in place and cementing the cross pieces, also 3/32 square stock, in them. By constructing both fuselage sides at once, one on top of the other, they can be made more accurately. When the cement is dry lift the two sides from the plans, and since they will probably stick together at the joints, slip a razor blade between them at the points where the glue is holding them.

Construct the wing center section at this time, half of which is shown the top view, and cut the two side formers, S-4 and S-5. Cement these to the fuselage at the points shown on the plans and hold in place. Bend the landing gear from .040 music wire to the shape shown on the plane. Cement and bind it with thread to the fuselage longerons. Cement the pieces of 1/16 sheet in place near the tail which holds the bamboo pin to anchor the rubber motor in the rear, and complete the fuselage by sanding the entire structure very thoroughly.

Sand the entire wing and make sure that there are no projections or rough spots which would spoil the covering. Trace the stabilizer plan so as to give the complete structure since only the left half is shown. The capstrips are very soft 1/16 square and are sanded to an airfoil shape as shown on the rudder plan.

The real ship is painted the conventional olive drab used on most Army planes, but since it is rather difficult to simulate this color by using tissue, the model may be colored to suit the individual builder. Be sure to have the grain of the tissue running lengthwise on all parts because this makes a neater finish on the model. When the fuselage is covered, the 1/16 sheet fill-in of the landing gear may be added. Do not cement the wood to the fuselage since this would lessen the shock absorbing qualities of the landing gear. Cement the wing panels to the center section and prop up the tips to give the wing 1 3/8 dihedral. Make the propeller from a block 7 x 1-1/2 x 1 inch and saw out the blank to the shape shown on the plans. Carve the blades to a shape to suit the builder and sand approximately 1/8 camber into the back of the blades. Add the insignia and color dope all exposed parts. Two or three coats of rather thin dope should be sufficient for the covering. If a small portion of colored dope is mixed with the clear, it will give a more satisfactory finish.

Make the necessary adjustments for powered flight by inserting small pieces of wood behind the noseblock as thrust. When the model is adjusted to the builder's satisfaction, use a mechanical winder and stretch the motor to at least twice its normal length for winding. In this manner many more turns may be stored in the motor, thus greatly increasing the duration of the flights."

Original scan found at HPA: http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_plans/details.php?image_id=9768

Redrawn, stitched onto a single sheet.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

Article, thanks to hobbycrazy2061.

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