Chindit (oz8349)

About this Plan

Chindit. Free flight sport model for 0.75cc diesel engines.

Quote: "This 38 inch slot-winged sportster is just right for 0.8cc motors. Chindit, by A Healey.

I decided that I wanted to build a model which would look attractive and would fly very stably. With this in mind I started looking at my stock of magazine back issues to get the old brain-box working. A parasol-winged design was one criterion - and then the notion of a slatted wing began to emerge. But there might be problems with covering the wing. Then I came up with the idea of slats that could be fitted permanently or left off at will.

Next thing was to simplify the parasol wing mount - I hate having to mess about, bending and soldering fiddly bits of wire. A simpler strut fitting is a definite bonus. The results bear out the theory and motivation perfectly. Now, why not try Chindit yourself?

Fuselage: Select medium-grade balsa and carefully mark and cut out the sides. Mark the positions of the formers and doublers, and fix doublers and 1/8in strips in place. I still prefer balsa cement for all but highly-stressed joints. Don't forget to make a left and a right side!

Cut out the formers. Note that F3 and F5 are slotted to take the cabane struts, so they must be accurate. Bend the undercarriage to shape, and bind and epoxy to the front of F3.

Fix the bearers next. Note the taper to allow the correct incidence angles. Cement F2, F3 and F4 to one side ensuring they are at right angles. The easiest way to do this is with the side on a flat surface; of course, the undercarriage, fixed to F3, must be allowed to hang over the edge of the work surface.

Cut the cabane struts from 1/8 ply. The rails, upon which the wing sits, are from spruce. Epoxy the components together over the plan - again, make one left and one right! When this assembly is dry, slot the front lugs into F3; the rear lugs fit into F5 which is now glued into place in company with the other formers on their fuselage side. Follow this by carefully fixing the other side sheet. Pin or clamp together while everything dries. Taper a piece of scrap balsa to form a sternpost and glue this in place when the fuselage sides are drawn together at the rear. Do this over the fuselage top view to ensure equal taper.

Add formers F9 and F10, the 1/8 strip, and the top formers F5A, F6, F7 and F8. Bevel the top edges of the 3/32 decking, glue in place and add the 1/16 top sheet, which must be carefully shaped and tested for fit. Add the piece of scrap balsa at the rear of the fuselage; then turn your attention to the nose and build up your cowling from soft balsa. Balsa cement is again the best adhesive because it sands so crisply, but allow plenty of time for large glued areas to dry before carving.

Smooth the cowling, rounding to a pleasant shape between Fl and F2. Drill bearers (allowing for a couple of degrees of sidethrust) and check fit motor. Cut cowling to suit access to the engine controls. Lastly, add undercarriage fairings and wheels. Cover fuselage with heavyweight tissue. Light-weight modelspan, slightly dampened, can negotiate amazing curvature if treated carefully so you may prefer to use this to cover the cowling.

Flying surfaces: Wings are built in halves, joined with a dihedral brace. A little extra work is needed to build the false ribs, top sheet and slat mounts. The slats themselves are cut from 1/4in balsa; you may laminate from thinner sheet.

Shape the rear curve first, then the front before carefully cutting the slots for the 1/16 ply mounting lugs. These must be a tight push fit in the false rib slots. Position the mounting lugs, then glue the slats in place, carefully ensuring equal alignment on both wings. When dry, ease out of the wings before covering with heavyweight tissue. The tissue over the false rib slots is carefully cut away with a sharp knife. A little easing with a fine file may be needed, but don't overdo it. Make sure there are no warps.

Empennage: Tail surfaces are simple to build. The tailplane centre piece is from soft balsa sheet, sanded to section and notched for the spar. Cut a 3/16 slot (over the plan for accuracy) to take the fin. Thin aluminium hinges (cigar tubes or Steradent containers are a good source!) allow trimming adjustments to the rudder. Don't forget the tail locating piece which fits into a matching cutout in the fuselage. Cover with heavyweight tissue.

Finishing and flight: Dope and colour to taste. You can go to town a bit as weight is not crucial. This could be your chance to try sunburst patterns, stars, stripes - or what you like. A dummy pilot also looks good.

A few test glides should reveal if anything is wildly wrong - but if you have built your Chindit accurately, and it balances where shown, there will be no problem. Try powered flight on half revs if you wish, but I always go mad and use normal power. Such is the stability of this model - Chindit will happily fly right on the stall, thanks to the flaps. It is most enjoyable, trimming to achieve this. In fact, you will find here a model which can be flown all day long, or as relaxation from your latest brainchild, so get ready to put a can or two of fuel through your favourite small diesel or glow this summer!"

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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