BD5 (oz8232)
About this Plan
Bede BD5. Radio control scale pusher model for electric power. The design is built with traditional stick and tissue construction. Power is by a modified IPS brushed motor using a custom-made drive shaft extension.
There is an excellent build thread (by the designer) at - https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?293... showing lots of detail and photos.
Instructions PDF assembled by Werty - https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2846...
Quote: "BD5 Build Instructions. By Dave Blum.
Since I've sent out so many copies of my BD5 plan I figured it would be a good idea to do a build thread on it. It would appear that some of the folks who got short kits from Aerolock got parts cut from an older file, but fear not the differences are minor. If F5 and F6 do not have holes for the driveshaft you have the older parts. This build is using parts cut from the current file which are the parts shown on the plans, I will note any changes that need to be made to the older parts.
Fuselage: Here goes, lets start with the fuselage. Lay out and familiarize yourself with all the parts.
Start by gluing the doublers to F2, F3, and F4. Those with the earlier parts will need to make some doublers and cut some slots for the lower fuselage stringers. Size is not critical, they're just there to keep you from crushing the fuselage until the lower sheeting is added. Also laminate the two FS rear fuselage spine parts.
Place the two fuselage sides on top of each other lining them up EXACTLY. Now take some slow CA and smear it across the rear of the fuselage taking care not to get any glue in between the two sides. When dry this will form a 'hinge' allowing you to now open the sides up in perfect alignment.
Place former F1 in place and put a piece of tape across both sides to hold it in place. Run the tape at least an inch down each side as it will be under some tension when the other formers are in place. Do not glue F1 at this time. Place all formers except F4B in place and when you are happy with the alignment glue them all including F1. Those with parts from the old files will need to cut some holes for the driveshaft in formers F5 and F6. Refer to sheet 2 of the plans for their size and location.
Now is also the time to decide if you will be using a GWS IPS drive. If you are, assemble the motor stick and make sure it fits in the gearbox. It will require some squishing for a snug fit and may even require a little trimming. It is important to do this now otherwise you'll destroy the fuse tryng to get the gearbox in later. Install the motor stick as well as part MM3 being sure to glue the stick to both the formers and MM3. I will not be using this drive so all subsequent photos will not show these parts installed..."
Supplementary file notes
Instructions. PDF with build photos and text, 14 pages.
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(oz8232)
BD5
by Dave Blum
2004
29in span
Scale Electric R/C LowWing Pusher Civil
clean :)
all formers complete :)
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Found online 29/11/2016 at:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2190323...
Filesize: 309KB
Format: • PDFvector
Credit*: mligosh
Downloads: 8119
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User comments
The infamous BD-5. I have a little experience with this model. Sometime in the mid 70's, Ed Burquez, whom I worked with, bought a BD-5 kit after rave reviews in the full size aviation magazines. I saw it once while he was building the fuselage, all aluminum held together with flush pop rivets, not a a simple thing to assemble. I couldn't believe how really small it was, but Ed could just barely fit into the slim fuselage. Later, he discovered he would have to lose weight if he wanted to put gas in it without exceeding the maximum weight requirements. Ed's kit was incomplete, major parts like landing gear and controls were yet to be delivered. About that time the first kits were being completed, and the main problem was the engine, located deep in the fuselage just behind the pilot. They would run long enough to get off the runway, then quit, usually because of overheating. All the first engines were converted snowmobile 2-cycle models with a belt drive to the prop shaft. Cooling issues frequently caused overheating, resulting in a dead stick condition at the worst possible time. Ed never received the wings for his kit, having lost interest after all the early deaths. I think he sold the remains several years later, probably very cheap. About the same time Ed bought his kit, I took one of his 3-views from his brochure and built a small balsa glider to see how it would fly. I used the long wing version Ed had ordered, with a profile fuselage and wings carved to an airfoil section. It sure looked short. Flew that way too. A simple hand glide flew pretty well, but a stronger hand launch refused to recover from a stall, turning sideways and falling out of the sky like a leaf. I gave the unsuccessful model to Ed, which may have played a role in his decision not to finish his kit. I never saw a kit completed, the company having gone belly up soon after, but I did see one fly a few years later at an airshow held at the Bessemer Ala airport. It was the extensively modified jet version from the James Bond movie where they flew it through an open hangar. His flight didn't last very long because of the thirsty jet engine, but it was fast. If you build this model, consider lengthening the fuselage with a larger fin and rudder, maybe it will fly better than mine.DougSmith - 12/12/2016
If you want to date this, the build thread on RCGroups is 2004.
GreggD - 26/12/2018
Got it, thanks.
SteveWMD - 26/12/2018
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- BD5 (oz8232)
- Plan File Filesize: 309KB Filename: BD5_DBlum_29in_oz8232.pdf
- Supplement Filesize: 195KB Filename: BD5_DBlum_29in_oz8232_instructions.pdf
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