Mini-PAAgan. Free flight PAA class power model.
Quote: "Half-A cutie for payload is latest in winning series. Mini-Paagan, by Dennis Davis.
One of the finest things that has happened the past few years in model aviation has been the Pan-American World Airways sponsored events at the Nationals and the various regional events all over the country. New ideas, better understanding of model aerodynamics and more fun and enjoyment have resulted because of Pan-American interest in our hobby-sport.
The Mini-Paagan presented here is a wonderful combination job - with Li'l Paagan (the dummy) in the bucket, it's a PAA-Load job - without the dummy it is a fine Half-A competition flyer, no sweat, same airplane. Throw a careful bunch of thin coats of dope on, a nice windshield job, and some black tissue trim, and it's a beauty event contender that flies birdlike! Nothing clumsy or boxy about this little gem.
With the pop-up tail dethermalizer back there, you can fly its PAAnts off without worrying about losing it - just make sure the fuse is good! And you'll enjoy the new type wing and stabilizer construction and the simple quick-together fuselage - this is about as warp-proof as light construction can get and plenty rugged.
Sold? Fine, let's go so we can fly it Sunday. Start with the wing and stabilizer.
This zigzag rib construction has several advantages over the usual surface construction, the out-standing one being that it is much more warp-resistant. The theory is that the ribs are braced to directly offset the warping tendency that shrunken covered surfaces inevitably have. Since the ribs must be there to form the contour of the section, they may as well be used to better advantage in strengthen-ing the structure. Modern, light structures must utilize every ounce of material.
The wing and stabilizer are built directly over full-size plans in the usual manner. The best method of reproducing ribs is by using a master template and razor blade directly on 1/16 sheet balsa. This technique is easy and doesn't require special saws, blades, etc. A little practice and a new razor blade guarantee good reproduction. Cut out 40 wing and 18 stabilizer ribs. It is best to pin them all together for sanding - the template is oversize to allow sanding to the finished contour shown on the plans. Notches for the bottom spar are cut as the ribs are cemented in place. (Top spars and notches are put in after the wing is built and dihedral installed.) The tip ribs are cut to the correct length, then sliced off the bottom for taper. The ribs at the dihedral break are put in after the dihedral is installed.
Leading edges and trailing edges are contoured, and structure is generally sanded before the di-hedral is put in. Use a large sand block - I find emery cloth lasts longer..."
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Update 19/02/2019: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
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