Messerschmitt BF-109 (oz7718)

About this Plan

Messerschmitt BF-109. Semi scale model German fighter for radio control. Uses foam-core wings.

Quote: "Messerschmitt BF-109. This warbird is based on a 45-powered stunt plane which was designed for fast building and flying at high-altitude locations. Author is US Air Force Academy student who happens to like 109's. Ivan Munninghoff.

Scale-like German fighter of WW-II stunts like crazy, is realistic enough to land in winner's circle.

EVER since I was old enough to appreciate the differences between one air-plane and another, I've had a soft spot for the Messerschmitt Bf-109. To me, it's the epitome of what a fighter plane ought to be. Long, lean, and mean - yet efficient looking with pleasing lines.

Since I started flying proportional, I've always wanted a 109 of my own. I decided to modify one of the local popular Class III designs because I knew it would fly well, and I liked the strong and simple construction techniques. All I was after was a good flying weekend airplane that just looked like a 109. It wasn't supposed to be a scale model. However, I took it along to this year's Mile-Hi R/C contest in Denver to fill the time between Class III flights. I accomplished nothing at all in Class III but got a third in Scale. What it lacked in scale appearance it more than made up for in flying. At the meet in Wichita, Kan, late in June, it got the highest flying points of all the entrants in Scale.

Two of these 109's have been built so far. Both are great performers. The spread-out landing gear makes takeoffs different, but not difficult. Landings are simple. You'll never miss a spin - it just pops in and out, but only when you want it to. The dihedral makes it quite stable even at slow speeds. Build one - you'll like it.

Wing: This is the easiest part of the plane, and probably the most gratifying because you get such nice results with so little effort. Start by cutting out the plywood templates. Use a piece of styrofoam that is 31 in long for each panel. To get the right taper, stagger the leading edge of the tip template back 1-1/2 in from the tip of the root template, so that the leading edge will be swept back a little bit. Cut out the two panels. Cut off the trailing edge squarely so that it will fit a 1/2 by 3/8 in trailing edge.

With a Moto-Tool, cut out a full-span notch on the top and the bottom of the surface for a 1/8 by 1/4 hardwood spar. Next, cut a full-depth notch for the two plywood dihedral braces. Glue in the spars and the trailing edge along with a piece of scrap-balsa 1/8 sheet tip rib on each panel to make the covering easier, and to protect the tips from one-wing-low landings.

Decide whether you are going to use strip ailerons or a conventional setup. If you're going to cut out flaps and ailerons, do it now. Cover and hinge them any way that you like. Install all the linkage before covering the rest of the wing, and make sure that everything works smoothly with no binding and no slop. Slop will allow fluttter which will tear the surfaces off. Follow the notes on the plans as to methods or installing the linkages. If flex-ible cable is used, make sure that the cable fits the tubing well, especially around corners. Small solder globs work well to keep things tight..."

Update 13/01/2017: added article, thanks to RFJ.

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