CO2 Powerhouse (oz7643)
About this Plan
CO2 Powerhouse. Free flight sport model, a scaled-down version of the classic 1939 Powerhouse design by Sal Taibi.
Quote: "Famous old contest machine, featured for the first time in the November 1939 issue of Model Airplane News, returns once again, much smaller, but equally as potent! CO2 Power-house, by AA Lidberg.
Sal Taibi's Powerhouse (oz5644) is one of those models that just seem to look right. It has a cabin, so it looks like a real airplane yet, with the forward-set wheels and ample dihedral, it is unmistakably an old-time model. Many Powerhouses are flying to-day, on wheels or floats, F/F or R/C, full size (84 in span), or as .020 replicas.
After obtaining a Telco CO motor, I felt that a scaled-down Powerhouse would be a good model for sport flying and for becoming familiar with the operation of the motor. The resulting model has proven to be an exceptional flyer, averaging a minute or more from ROG's. Flying was right off the board, as that tired old saying goes, yet it aptly describes a painless first flying session. The CO2 Powerhouse exhibits no bad tendencies, while it makes extremely consistent flights.
Construction is quick - just think of it as a big Peanut model, but with wood sizes large enough so that they won't break easily.
FUSELAGE: Make two sides with 3/32 square longerons plus 1/16 x 3/32 uprights and 3/32 sheet fill-ins at front and rear. You're right - 1/16 x 3/32 is an odd size, so substitute 3/32 square if necessary. Cut the firewall (motor mount) from 1/16 plywood, plus the cowl former and the former at F2 from 1/16 balsa sheet, Join the body sides upside down over the top view, using the F2 former to hold them square. Add the firewall at the front and pull the sides together at the rear, adding some scrap sheet at the rear bottom to support a skid. Add the crossbraces now, and the extra braces on the inner surfaces at F1 which help support the wing and the landing gear. Bend and install the main gear, epoxying it to the front of the F1 braces. Add the four landing gear gussets and the rear landing gear struts. The rear struts are not glued to the body, but are allowed to slide through the slots in the rear gus-sets. The 'old-time' appearance is maintained, yet the landing gear provides quite a bit of flex, if needed.
Time for a bit of philosophy - the model shown was constructed around the engine, tank, and filler nozzle. In order to remove the power plant, major surgery on the model will he necessary. This might he worth thinking about if you'd like to use the same motor in other models. One option to permit easy removal would be to let the filler nozzle just hang out, with-out bolting it in place, probably in about the location shown on the plan. Another option would be to have the cowl removable - perhaps hinged with Scotch tape - so the tank could be pulled out that way. Tiny wood screws could also he used to attach the motor instead of the screws, lockwashers and nuts furnished with the motor.
The small plywood mount for the filler nozzle can now be added; it helps brace the firewall, too. Fit the motor and tank in place now, coiling up the excess tubing as shown. The tank can be left hanging in the cabin area for now - once its location is fixed for balance purposes, it can be braced in place. Add the cowl former and, using a paper pattern for trial fits..."
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 25/04/2016: article pages, text & pics added, thanks to RFJ.
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