Focke Wulf 190A-5 (oz7624)

About this Plan

Focke Wulf 190A-5. Radio control scale model. For .25 to .40 engines and 2-3 channel radio.

Quote: "FOCKE WULF FW190A-5. Mike Booth's fun fighter version of Kurt Tank's immortal design. 45ins span for .25 - .40 motors, and four function radio.

WHEN LOOKING FOR A REPLACEMENT for a time expired Spitfire of similar scale, the FW 190 was a natural choice. This type of model has always appealed to me, you can get a lot of pleasure from hand-launchable fighters. They are not big, by any standards; they don't take an age to build and you can still make them look very scale, particularly in the air. I must confess that other influences were the colour scheme (ref: Axis Fighters of WWII). I have a passion for airbrushing mottled camouflage, and after seeing Brian Gowlands FW at Hucknall last year, the flame was kindled.

Don't prevaricate - get building. This model is not difficult to build so I only intend to outline the construction generally, explaining the 'tricky bits'. The wing is built onto 1/16 in sheet, with a 1/4 in square spruce spar glued down, after the drawing has been traced onto the lower sheeting. Glue ribs in place, top spar and cut out ailerons, after wash-out has been incorporated. This is done in the time honoured way with piece of scrap 1/4in under the top trailing edge. Wash-out both panels separately and then join with dihedral braces, cut-in aileron torque rods sleeved with tubing through each rib. Cut leading edge from 1/2in balsa (I always cut this below and above sheeting) after checking wash-out again, and the top sheeting has dried out, razor plane and sand to shape. Add wing tips and servo box and there's a wing.

For the fuselage, select two pieces of 1/8 sheet of equal medium strength, eg if not from the same tree then at least from the same corner of the Amazon forest! This, as we all know, makes life a great deal straighter when pulling the two sides around the formers and into the tailpost. But, before that, cut all the formers out. F1 and F2 are for the cowling but I will come back to that. F3 is made up of three pieces as drawn. Cut these and sandwich the three together; it is advisable to cut a square, or round hole, out of the middle lamination and rear piece. This is so that you can get the fuel tank as far forward as possible. Drill a hole in this bulkhead for the wing dowels.

Make up the other three formers from 1/8 sheet, laminated with 0.4mm plywood; bearing in mind that we are trying to keep the tail end as light as possible. Once you have got to this stage you can draw on the fuselage side the position lines for each former. The two sides can now be glued to the front bulkhead. Because this aircraft tapers from front to tail, there is no need to glue all the formers to one side first. Curl the sides into the slots in F3 and pin until dry.

Full-size reference. If you refer to the real aircraft (I recommend ASP scale drawings plan No.2761), you will notice the engine and cowling have about 1 degree upthrust. I included this in my model by tilting the front bulkhead (F3) back slightly so as to achieve scale thrustline. This you will notice is counteracted by the negative incidence on the tailplane. However, it is entirely up to you. If you are not fussed, it will probably make little difference if everything is pointing straight. Now glue the cockpit former in position, pulling sides in straight. When this is dry, proceed with the rest of the formers into the tail post.

There is very little in the way of planking to do with this model, plank from F5 into the tail, the rest of the fuselage is sheeted with 1/8 in balsa, wetted, glued and pinned into shape.

The top fuselage is literally three pieces of 1/8 sheet, curved around F4 and pinned to the cockpit dash at the other end, the top piece being glued on after the two sides are dry. To get this right you will need to look at photographs of the prototype. The forward section is finished with lithoplate; this would be a convenient hatch position to view the fuel tank, but it is up to you. I don't think I've had one plan where I haven't altered something to suit myself. Cockpit glass is made from 3mm perspex and the canopy from acetate - although a vacuum formed canopy will be available (see caption).

Tail options. Tailplane, elevators and rudder are made from 1/4 in sheet. The actual fin is built-up from 1/8 sheet core, with small riblets, and then skinned with 1/16 sheet. The broad leading edge is sanded from 1/2 in sheet. I show no detail for this on the plan because I honestly think for the work involved you might just as well laminate and plane the whole fin from very soft 1/2 in sheet, the weight difference is probably marginal... "

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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