Minnie (oz7578)


Minnie (oz7578) by Mike Proctor from RCME 1984 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Minnie. Radio control sailplane. Simple 2 function hand launch (javelin hand lanch, that is) glider design by Mike Proctor.

Quote: "Full-size plans pull-out. 48 inch wingspan hand launch glider, designed for two function R/C. Minnie, by Mike Proctor

THE INSPIRATION for this sample design, and the whole idea of hand-launch R/C gliders in general, came during the 1983 F3B Glider World Champs held at York. Seeing one of the US team make a 40 minute flight with an F3B model from a hand-launch, then watching the fun the Americans had flying limbo under a line a mere 1/2 in higher than the chuck gliders fin made me think that here was a fun aspect of R/C gliding that needed further exploration.

My own simple 'Minnie' design was conceived as something that did not require anything special or exotic in the way of R/C equipment, a standard 27MHz Futaba two-function outfit is used with Futaba 30M servos and a 225mAH Ni-Cad. A weight of around 9 oz should be possible, this results in a wing loading of a little less than 5 oz/sq ft. One example built by a junior member of my club bends the scales at 15 oz.,but has flown very well as a slope soarer in up to 20 mph winds. My own model will slope soar small buildings or very small ridges, totally impractical with larger models.

I do hand-launch the model, but prefer to use a very short bungee made from 30ft of Terylene control-line thread (Keil Kaft) and 15 ft of 1/4 in flat rubber. This combination gives a simulation of a mighty heave from a good thrower but without effort or strain. My best flight so far has been 5 min 30 secs, and that was on a windy day.

Construction: Take care with wood selections. If you are confident of your ability to select good wood and make an accurate job of construction, spruce is probably unnecessary for the wing spars. Weight is critical to good performance so do make sure that glue is also kept to a minimum.

Before commencing, check on the size of your R/C equipment. The fuselage should be no wider than needed for the widest component. Cut out a full set of wing ribs then start by pinning down the centre panel main spar, leading and trailing edges. Fit the ribs and riblets W1, W2 and W2a, fill in between the root ribs W1 with the underside sheeting and fit the 1/8 ply (or two laminations of 1/16 ply) dihedral brace. Fit the webbing and add the top spar. Sheet the centre section top surface and add the trailing edge reinforcing gussets. Build the second centre panel onto the first, propping up the completed panel 1-1/2 in. Build the tips and sand the roots to the corect angle before butt joining these onto centre panels.

Cut out two basic fuselage sides from 3/32 balsa and add the 3/16 sq balsa longerons. Make up three formers F1, 2 and 3 to suit your R/C equipment width. Assemble the sides onto formers then pull in the fuselage rear and glue. Sheet top and bottom of fuselage with 1/16 balsa except where noted as ply. Cut out tailplane and fin parts and glue these into place. Either use block

balsa or laminate a nose block. Bend up the tow hook and slide through from the inside reinforcing it with a small piece of bandage.

R/C Equipment: Rudder and elevator push-rods can be from 1/8 in diameter hardwood dowel with very small gauge wire ends - 20 swg is fine, which can be fixed on using heat-shrink tube or bound with thread. Clevises and associated fittings, solder, etc can add up to quite a lot of weight so Z bends are best for
fixings at either end. Servos fit into the under-wing bay, one higher than the other so that adequate clearance is made for push-rods. As a further weight-saving measure, dispense with both receiver case and switch, plug the Ni-Cad directly into receiver to switch on. If you have been careful with wood selection, etc, then very little weight will be needed to balance the model.

Flying: Build up to full blown javelin style launches steadily otherwise we will be reading of a rash of 'HLG launchers Shoulder' demanding treatment at the local out-patient department. if you just cannot throw, then try the mini bungee idea, it really works. Most flights are likely to be in the order of 30 secs but when you do find lift, the thrill is tremendous. Bear in mind that these are small models so don't throw caution to the winds if lift is found. Lightly loaded models go up fast and being small can very quickly get out of visual range. Far better to settle for a 3-minute flight than 5 minutes out of sight, out of range and out of pocket! "

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 10/05/2016: article pages, text & pics added, thanks to RFJ.

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Minnie (oz7578) by Mike Proctor from RCME 1984 - model pic

  • (oz7578)
    by Mike Proctor
    from RCME
    December 1984 
    48in span
    Glider R/C
    clean :)
    all formers complete :)
    got article :)
  • Submitted: 28/03/2016
    Filesize: 303KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: AugustaWest

Minnie (oz7578) by Mike Proctor from RCME 1984 - pic 003.jpg
Minnie (oz7578) by Mike Proctor from RCME 1984 - pic 004.jpg
Minnie (oz7578) by Mike Proctor from RCME 1984 - pic 005.jpg

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User comments

Here are some pictures of the Minnie Glider that I built from plans downloaded from your site [pics 003-005]. With a little trimming I had the glider flying 75 ft from shoulder height. Great website keep up the good work.
EricPearson - 04/07/2017
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