Prowler (oz7566)

About this Plan

Prowler. Radio control model for Speed 280 electric power. Wingspan 35-3/4 in, wingh area 215 sq in.

Quote: "Hi Steve, Attached are two plan files and photo of the Prowler from RC Microflight magazine [now defunct] of October 2001. Sorry it's only a .GIF but this was exactly how the plans were provided from the magazine's website. This was my first electric model built from plans and I enjoyed building it but I used a rather heavy NiMh pack. One day I'll build it again with a LiPo (but I'll still use a speed 280 brushed motor for old-time's sake!). Regards, DeeBee1"

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 17/4/2023: Added article, thanks to theshadow.

Quote: "Prowler, by Tom Herr. Everyone thought I was crazy. I wanted to create a series of small park flyers that would be powered by direct-drive Speed 280 motors; they would fly in higher winds but would also be able to maneuver in areas small enough to each earn the 'park flyer' classification. My calculations seemed to support my concept, and despite the doubts expressed by many people, I was sure that it would work.

The only way to know for sure that something can be done is to build it and test it. I wanted a model that would prove my theory but could also be used for various experiments. It would fly in a parking lot but not only when the weather was favorable. It would need a broad speed range so I'd be able to fly it faster when the wind picked up and more slowly when the wind died down. Ideally, I wanted a model that would fly in 15mph winds. It was a bit of a challenge to achieve the weight I wanted while using common components and materials that were not necessarily the lightest available.

I based my design on the Midwest Aero Sport (oz6401) because its versatile configuration was easy to adapt, and I would be able to use it to test a number of motors, radios and airfoils. I originally called my new shoulder-wing model 'Mini-Sport,' but that's the name of the low-wing version, so I renamed it 'Prowler.'

CONSTRUCTION: Because the Prowler's airframe is of a very conventional construction, it's fairly easy to build. To speed assembly, cut out all the parts before you begin. I used 6- to 8-pound balsa with good results.

The tail surfaces are simple sheet pieces. I used Sig EZ hinges cut into 1/8-inch-wide strips, but don't glue these hinges into place until after you've covered the tail surfaces.

The fuselage is a simple box comprising only 15 pieces. Glue the F-2 doublers to the inside of the fuselage sides; be sure to make one right side and one left side. Next, glue formers F-3 and F-4 into place on the left fuselage side (they should be at 90 degrees to the fuselage side); then glue the right side into position and former F-5 into place.

Place formers F-7 and F-8 into position and clamp the rear ends of the fuselage together with a clothespin. Put F-9 into place, square up the aft end of the fuselage, and glue form-ers F-5 through F-7 into place.

Bend the landing gear to shape and glue it to the front of former F-3. Test-fit former F-10, then cut small notches to clear the landing-gear legs and glue F-10 into position. Glue formers F-11 and the two F-12s into position, and then add former F-6. To finish the fuse-lage, glue the motor-mount parts together, and then glue the assembly to the front of F-5.

When the fuselage is complete, it's time to build the wing. Cover the left wing plan with wax paper, and pin the lower spar and the lower trailing edge (TE) into position. Align the inboard ends with the wing center-line and place the W-2 rib into position at 90 degrees to the building board; then glue it to the spar and TE.

Put shear web 'A' into position and glue it to the lower spar; the angled edge should face the wing centerline. Glue rib W-1 into position; this should fit against the edge of the shear web and should be angled toward the wingtip to establish the proper dihedral angle.

Glue the W-3 ribs and the remaining shear webs into position, then position the top spar and glue it to the ribs and to the shear webs. Add the LE, top TE and 3/42-inch-square turbulator strips. Last, glue the 1/22-inch sheet to the top inboard end of the wing and add the W-4 wingtip ribs.

Build the right wing as you did the left, and sand the LEs round. Sand the wings smooth, and cut a slot in each of the W-1 ribs for the dihedral brace, as shown on the plan..."

Supplementary file notes

Article.

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