About this Plan
Syncopator. Free flight glider model. A1 specification 55in wingspan glider.
Quote: "Your FULL-SIZE plan - a 55 inch wingspan A/1 class contest glider. Syncopator, by Paul Newell.
THIS model was designed to satisfy the requirement of a high performance A/1 glider for the increasing number of contests for this class. Its wing section has been adequately proved on high aspect ratio A/2s and appears to be quite efficient with small chord sizes. Due to the thinness of this section, diagonal ribs are necessary to provide adequate rigidity.
The method of wing fixing is somewhat unusual in its elimination of rubber bands, but once again this has been adequately proved on larger models by several fliers. In the event of the ply root ribs wearing and the wings becoming loose it is a simple matter to roughen the tongue by clamping between the serrated jaws of a vice and then smearing Araidite on to improve the fit.
Although requiring some extra work during the building of the model, DT and autorudder system, greatly simplifies field adjustments and makes for easier flying; a very desirable feature for midwinter contests.
Construction: Cut out the fuselage top. bottom and sides from in. sheet and cement the top and bottom to the starboard side. Add the various block pieces, ensur-ing that adequate wood is available for screwing in the DT timer. The port side is now added. Cement on one of the ply wing facings and using this as a guide cut the slot for the wing tongue. The other facing is then added with the tongue in position so ensuring accurate alignment. The tin and autorudder are cut out and the tape hinges cemented to the fin and the torsion spring added. The rudder is then slid onto the spring and the hinges cemented in position. At this stage the rudder should be hard over to the right. The horn/stop wire is then bent to shape, slotted into the rudder and cemented. Sand-paper the fuselage down and fit the rudders, tail seating and sundry fittings.
Cut out all the wing ribs omitting the spar slots. The tip LE and slotted TE are pinned down and cemented together and a dummy rib added at the dihedral position. When set, remove from building board and sandpaper the undercarnber into the TE.
The centre sections are built as one and separated afterwards to ensure accurate alignment. Pin down the LE and slotted LE, packing up the front of the TE by 1/16 in. The ply centre ribs are slid onto the tongue and cemented to the LE and TE. All the other straight ribs are then added. When set, remove from building board and fit the geoclatic ribs lining up on the underside. As each rib is added check that no distortion is introduced by overlength ribs. The two halves may now be separated.
Tips are now built onto the centre sections, these being packed up to the dihedral angle, Again after fitting the straight ribs, the structure is removed from the building board before fitting the diagonals. The diagonal ribs are all cut from standard size W7s, the dotted line indicating the position of the cross-joint. Using this as a guide, the front and rear ends are trimmed to fit individually, the under-surfacing being used as before for aligning when cementing in position. When set, the entire top surface is sanded down using a large sandpaper block. The spar notches are then cut, remembering to allow for the thickness of the LE sheeting. The recess for the sheeting is then cut in on the tips. The spars are now added followed by the 1/32 sheeting. Sand down in preparation for covering.
The tail is built in the same manner as the wings, the wire hook being added after sanding.
The entire model should be covered with light-weight tissue. Care should be taken to ensure that the undersurfaces are stuck down securely on every rib and spar. Use three or four coats of thinned dope (30-40 per cent thinners). Nose ballast is fitted through the timer hole and after packing in with tissue a non-shrinking glue eg PVA is poured in. Nylon DT and autorudder lines are inserted by dropping a sewing needle through with a piece of cotton attached, the nylon may then be drawn through. For the autorudder line, two pieces of cotton are dropped through to the rear, one from the front tube near the timer and one from the tube near the autorudder. Tieing these two cottons together and pulling tight results in a thread running through the desired tubes. Metal rings should be tied on the front end of the nylOn lines.
Flying: Hook the autorudder line to the neutral position and test glide. The tail incidence should be adjusted for the flattest glide. If Any turn is present this should be corrected. Tow launches may then be made and the glide adjusted until it is close to the stall. In this trim the model will sniff out lift and centre up into it, so remember to set the dethermalliser!"
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 23/03/2016: Article page added, thanks to RFJ.
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