Nieuport Scout (oz7505)

About this Plan

Nieuport Scout. Control line scale model French WWI fighter biplane. For engineds up to .30. Scale is 1/12.

Quote: "ONE of the great planes of the World War I was the French Nieuport Scout. Used by the French, British, and later the Americans, it gained a fine reputation for fighting ability. France's foremost ace, Georges Guynemer, won most of his 53 victories flying the Nieuport. Canada's famous Billy Bishop flew a Nieuport in the early part of his career and a good portion of his 73 kills were made in this plane.

With only 110 hp, the Nieuport had a top speed of about 107 mph, not much when compared to present day filhters. Nevertheless, the Nieuport had excellent maneu-verability. Firepower at first consisted of a single Lewis gun mounted above the wing to fire outside the propeller arc but after the interrupter gear was perfected to permit firing through the prop, one or two Vickers machine guns were carried on the fuselage.

Rotary powered (the cylinders and crankcase revolved with the propeller), the Nieuport had the undesirable characteristic of terrific torque common to all planes using rotary enginea at the time. The engine had to be 'blipped' on a landing approach to maintain king speed and this alternate torque and lack of same caused extremely tricky landings and often serious accidents.

Many modifications and changes occured during the Nieuport's development. The accompanying plans include notes on the early Model 17 outlines. This particular version probably achieved the greatest fame because of the men who flew it. MI's model incorporates the changes made in later Model 27.

Built to a scale of 1 inch = 1 foot, the resulting 27 in span model has flown well and, although rather small, the large wheels enable it to get off rough sod fields. In the air it handles easily and makes an excellent stunt ship. The original job was powered with a Bantam engine but any powerplant from .099 to .30 cubic inch displacement can be used. Of course, structural changes in the nose will be necessary.

The fuselage is comparatively easy to build and consists of sheet balsa sides and bottom, with the curved portions being carved from medium 1/2 in stock. First trace the side view outline on a sheet of 3/32 in medium stock and cut out, making certain the front edge is absolutely square. Use this finished side as a pattern and duplicate the second fuselage side. Now mark off the position of bulkheads F-2, F-3 and the three built up formers and then cement a hard piece of 1/4 sq stock to the extreme front edge of each side. Cut out bulkheads F-2, F-3 and the engine bearers.

At the point indicated just behind the cockpit, lightly cut and crack each sheet balsa side to form the top view taper shown. Check the angle by placing each half directly over the plan. Pin and cement F-2 and F-3 to the sides and then tack this sub-assembly upside down directly over the top view, letting the front hang about 1/2 in over the edge of your workboard. Now slide the firewall on the engine bearers and then carefully insert and cement the bearers to bulkheads F-2 and F-3.

Pin and cement the tail ends together and then build up the rear formers, as shown. Insert the 1/4 in sheet lower wing platform resting on F-2, add the reinforcement for the tail skid and then bevel two pieces of 1/8 scrap to reinforce the cracked fuselage sides. Now cover the rear bottom portion of the fuselage with 1/16 in sheet and, after the cement has dried, remove the entire structure from the plan. Cement the tail skid in place, add the 1/8 in sheet stabilizer platform and then trace and cut from 1/2 in stock the top and side pieces that form the curved portion of the fuse-lage. Spot-cement these pieces to the fuselage and carve the exterior.

After each block has been sanded, cut it away and hollow out as indicated. Note that the block forward the cockpit is only hollowed out to accommodate the coil. Do not cement this block in place until after the wiring has been completed. Next, drill the hole for the control plate bolt in the left engine mount and assemble the control plate rod and line leads. Finally, install the control system in the fuselage.

Bolt the engine in place and drill the hole in the fuselage top for the needle valve extension. An Eagle or similar penlite bat-tery case will just fit into the cramped quarters and is cemented directly against F-2. Complete the wiring, check the circuit and cement the fuselage top in place.

The cowling is of solid balsa cut from a 3-1/2 in square x 1-1/2 in thick piece of stock or else built up of smaller pieces. Saw out the inside ring, shape the exterior and then cut away for the cylinder, exhaust stack, condenser and tank. Hold the cowl in place with dress snaps or hooks and rubber bands.

The landing gear is now bent to shape and fitted to the firewall with aluminum strips and two bolts, but do not install until after the lower wing has been attached. The fuel tank is made from a medium battery shell, as shown. If the Bantam engine is used, the needle valve body should be held to the intake pipe with a nut on the bottom in place of the regular threaded tank top. The bottom of the fuselage forward the wing, may be left open for easy access to the batteries or else fitted with a removable hatch.

The tail surfaces are next. Trace the one piece stabilizer and elevator half out-lines on the prescribed stock and carve to shape. The plan contains the popular cloth hinge method but your favorite system can be used. Attach the control horn, checking the connection with the control rod for elevator travel before cementing the stabilizer permanently to the fuselage. The elevators should be neutral while the control plate is neutral..."

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Supplementary file notes

Planfile includes article.

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