Hot Dawg (oz7332)
About this Plan
Hot Dawg. Radio control sport model.
Quote: "A Sport Fun-Fly Model for .40 -.52 Engines. Hot Dawg by Bobby W Baker.
I gotta confess. I am an airplane junkie. Even worse, I'm a long time junkie having acquired the habit at a young and tender age. There is no known cure, thank goodness. So I have blissfully gone on my way designing, building, and flying everything from 1/2A single channel to several full-size homebuilts. The Hot Dawg is my 56th R/C design.
Due mainly to time restraints, I've previously not submitted any of my R/C designs for public consumption, but the Hot Dawg project turned out so well that I felt this one had to be shared. The finished plane is one piece with radio and tank accessible through a top mounted hatch. The wing, tail surfaces and fuselage are joined permanently after covering is applied. The very thick symmetrical airfoil, light wing loading, and gobs of thrust make the 3-D maneuvers like hovering possible. I built two prototypes and powered both with C.S. 52 4-strokes turning 11 x 4 APC props. After building a new plane and getting 50-100 flights, I usually get bored and want something new. But the Hot Dawg has been a different story. Between the two prototypes, I've got 500-600 flights and every time out is still exciting, especially with the control throws really cranked.
The design is a great teacher since it can perform most all maneuvers in close, low and slow, with plenty of throttle left to fly out of any possible stall. Take-offs can go immediately vertical and out of sight, and landings can be made as slow as the lightest high wing trainer. I'm using Futaba T6XA computer radios that have mixing on the elevator and aileron-flap surfaces. At 50% mix, loops can get really tight. If I've got your interest stirred up, let's start building!
CONSTRUCTION The two prototype Hot Dawgs were built almost completely with thick and thin CA glues, using baking soda as a filler for those less than perfect joints. Aliphatic or carpenter's glue works well but requires longer curing times. A 24 x 48 inch ceiling tile 'spot' glued to a hollow core door makes an excellent building board. Cover the plans with waxed paper or Saran Wrap to prevent the structure from sticking.
Wing: Place the 3/8 x 3/8 x 48 in balsa spars and leading edge in place over the wing drawing and mark the rib locations on all three at the same time. Place a 1/8 x 3/8 x 48 in balsa strip over the main wing spar position and pin the bottom spar over this. The 1/8 shim will elevate the spars and ribs above the drawing at the correct building position.
Set all ribs in their correct location and pin in place. Install the top spar and leading edge, and pin to hold in place. Make sure the building tabs are also pinned down securely and all ribs are square with the building surface..."
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by Bobby Baker
from RCMplans (ref:1292)
all formers complete :)
got article :)
Found online 21/12/2015 at:
Format: • PDFbitmap
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