Midge (oz7307)

About this Plan

Midge. Simple rubber sport model. All-sheet balsa design.

Quote: "Only one foot in span, this rubber model is big eyeful. It flies pretty good, too! Midge, by Ed Lidgard.

If you're looking for a nifty one-evening project, go no further friend - this little rubber ship was designed just for you! Start by tracing or pin-pricking the main full-size parts (A-E) on to 1/32 and 1/8 medium sheet, then cut them out with a sharp modeling knife or razor. Building is real easy, but here are a few notes to speed things along.

Follow the building sequence shown at right (fuselage sections also are given). Check carefully that flying surfaces line up correctly with each other and note that the dihedral is measured between the wing tips and building board, with fuselage resting flat on latter. In the side view, the landing gear legs are bent forward 3/4 in. Dope black tissue in place to represent the cabin. Dope undersurfaces of wing pan els to maintain undercamber and dope the fuselage for handling protection.

A 5 inch plastic prop can be picked up at your local hobby shop for reasonable cost. Use a piece of brass tube for a bearing and make sure that the nose block is a tight fit in the fuselage open ing. A single 5-1/2 in loop of well lubricated (glycerine, preferably glycerine and green soap from the druggist) 1/8 flat rubber will provide plenty of pep if you have used fairly light balsa. Sand a half circle in the end of a length of 1/4 in sq balsa, loop the knot end of the rubber over it and push into the fuselage as far as it will go - then insert the 1/16 diameter dowel tail peg.

Add clay to nose or tail to achieve correct balance (see plan) and trim out any minor driving or stalling tendencies by bending the stab trailing edges up or down. Downthrust is built into the nose and maximum turns after about a dozen flights is 150-175 turns.

The rubber can be stretched out three times normal length, then wound by a mechanical winder, such as a drill with a music wire hook. When a row of knots appear, walk in toward the model gradually, still winding slowly. This avoids bunching the knots. Have a helper hold the model for you during this operation.

It is a good idea to test fly any model over tall grass, when practical. When you first hand glide the plane, aim at a spot on the ground about 15 feet in front of you, and launch the ship with a kind of sturdy, smooth push. Do not throw it. When the glide appears to be steady, not nosing up or diving, then try perhaps 40 turns on the rubber and launch again, as before, this time push very gently.

The experts would adjust the glide first, then add downthrust (tilting the prop downhill) to keep the plane from stalling, or zooming nose high, when the propeller is pulling. As more turns are added the amount of downthrust may have to be increased..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 2/1/2023: Added article, thanks to Pit.

Supplementary file notes

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