About this Plan
Mistral. Sport RC model, for .40 power.
Quote: "Realistic looking, home-built-type sport model is quite maneuverable on 40-size engine. Mistral, by J Swift.
I like building originals - I get a charge having the only one of its kind at the field. Kit-building is not for me. I just don't have the patience looking for those little pieces. 'Mistral' is the result.
I was looking for a low-wing tail-dragger that would resemble a home-built. After the original was built, modifications made another model desirable - hence No.2. No.1 model was powered by a 30-sized motor and flew off the board. Stunts were easily done with this ship. However, I wanted to clean up the lines and reduce drag; the result was No.2 Mistral. A 40-motor with a muffler was chosen. Streamlining paid off and I had a fast maneuverable ship that would not run me into debt with fuel bills.
I get depressed when I see repetitive construction articles. Nevertheless, there are certain parts that will he easier to build with a little explanation.
Fuselage: I used 1/32 ply, but balsa can be used. Cut out sides and doublers and glue together using a good contact glue. The longerons and triangular stock are glued next. Longeron is not flush with the top of the side (see plan).
Formers are prepared next. F is 3/8 ply drilled for fuel lines and Tatone motor mount. F1 and F2 are epoxied to fuselage sides. While glue is curing, the stabilizer can be built. This is straightforward, and requires no comment.
Draw the rear ends of this fuselage to-gether and trim triangle stock to allow a piece of 3/16 balsa to be used as a tailpost. Glue together and add the remaining formers. The two formers for the radio equipment are not glued in yet.
The motor mount is fastened with blind nuts. A little epoxy on the mount plate prevents loosening due to vibration. Temporarily mount the motor and drill holes for throttle linkage. (A long piece of sharp music wire helps.) The tank also can be mounted at this time. I don't use hatches. Use neoprene fuel tube, with a heavy 'clunk' in the tank. Bind the tubing with thin copper wire to prevent its working off the feed and clunk..."
from March 1970 issue of American Modeler.
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