Curtiss Hawk P-6E (oz6755)

About this Plan

Curtiss Hawk P-6E. Radio control scale model. Uses a foam wing.

Quote: "A long-time favourite, the Curtiss Hawk is presented here as a good-looking airplane that is easy to build and fun to fly. Designed for three channel operation, the Hawk will fly on engines in the .19 to .30 power range. By Bob Rich. Photos By Bob and Doris Rich and Carl Noyes.

The Curtiss P-6E has been a favorite of most modelers for years and I am no exception. I'm not sure whether it is the overall lines or the squadron markings and the Snow Owl. Whatever it is, it is an airplane that has the 'look' .

The model was meant to be a good looking airplane that is fun to fly, The fuselage and tail were designed to match the Goldberg Ranger 42 foam wings that were cut to shape. The overall effect is an aesthetically pleasing plane that is easy to build. and best of all, is easy and fun to fly.

The use of the foam wings on this project makes it much easier and quicker to build and it doesn't look like a foam wing plane. The details added on the original model were easy to put on and they add to the overall appearance. There was no real attempt to make the model scale, but all dimensions other than the wing chord are very close to scale. The plans were drawn from the drawings in the September-October 74 issue of National Aeronautics. If you plan to finish the model realistically, the Profile Publications on the Hawks should really turn you on.

Construction Notes. As this plane is not meant to he a beginners project, it is not necessary to go into great detail on construction methods. The plans and the photos cover most of the items and there is nothing difficult about any part of the model.

Fuselage: All wood sizes are marked on the plans. Construction is sheet sided box type with a 1/16 plywood doubler in the nose section. If you have trouble finding the sheet sites then build them up from nar-rower sizes. Zap or Hot Stuff is good for joining sheets if the joint is a good match. Make sure to make one right side and one left side! Glue the 1/4 sheet balsa forward sides to the fuselage sides before joining the sides. Mark the location of the formers and braces on the fuselage sides from the plan. then join the sides making sure the fuselage is kept square.

The hardwood bearers and plywood motor mount plate are used for versatility and strength. Changing to different engines is also very easy. The false formers added to the formers at the cockpit make it easier to glue the cockpit sides on, rather than trying to match the pieces on half the former width. The rear turtledeck is easier if it is made in two pieces rather than trying to bend it from one piece.

Bend the wire cabane struts to shape. Wrap the joints with copper wire and solder. Using heavy carpet thread or dacron, wrap and secure the struts to the 1/4 square hard balsa fuselage cross braces. Coat the wire, thread and balsa cross brace with epoxy for additional strength and security. When the epoxy has set, install the wing struts in the fuselage with epoxy. Re-check to make sure the wings will set level with zero incidence. When you have decided on the engine you are going to install, make a motor mount plate from 1/4 ply to fit the engine. Use Goldberg blind nuts to mount the plate to the bearers and the engine to the plate. Remove the engine and build-up the nose cowling..."

Supplementary file notes

Article pages, text and pics, thanks to hlsat.

Corrections?

Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)? That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction