Hero 40 (oz6646)

About this Plan

Hero 40. Radio control sport twin boom pusher model.

Quote: "Hi Steve, The Hero .40 was challenge given to me by a friend. To design an airplane with twin booms that you can disassemble keeping the booms and fuse together. Easy to store and assemble. I scanned the magazine article and some pictures of my grandsons when they were young with the 'Hero' and an older gentleman, who built the airplane."

Quote: "I am a modeler who likes to design and build different types of aircraft - ones that are interesting, but not too offbeat. I was a draftsman and Computer Aided Design and Drafting operator for 35 years. It's not too difficult for me to sit down at the computer and draw a set of plans, and I've been building and flying RC airplanes for more than 30 years. This project uses proven construction techniques that produce a strong, light, fast-building model. The Hero 40 is interesting and different - it's a pusher with three booms.

The wing is removable for easy transporting; it's a standard .40-size Kaos (oz6251) wing with a swept-back leading edge (thanks to Joe Bridi for this great flying platform.) The interesting thing is that the booms stay with the fuselage and not the wing. The fuel tank is at the center of gravity (CG) and therefore the trim does not change as the fuel is used.

Since the model is a pusher, all of the flying surfaces are in 'clean' air. Another advantage is that the engine exhaust is between the booms at the rear of the model, keeping the fuselage clean and oil-free. The model would make an ideal front-mounted camera or TV platform. I have not tried this yet, but I plan to do so eventually.

Before you start construction, you should consider some options:

1) I used a 1/4-inch aluminum drive shaft extension on the engine. This places the engine closer to the CG. I used a K&B .40 with a longer 1/4-28 shaft. If you can't make one, perhaps a friend with a lathe could make one for you. If not, a work-around would be to use a standard engine and cut an inch out of the rear center section of the wing for prop clearance.

2) I wanted rudder control, I used a pull-pull system that crosses over in the compartment behind the radio receiver. This give you the correct relation between the rudder and nose wheel. The pickup for the rudder is on the top of the nose-wheel shaft. The rudder servo (mounted all the way up front) moves the pickup bar and turns the nose gear at the same time. You can glue the rudders to the fins: a rudder is not needed to fly this aircraft - on one flight I used rudder control to save the airplane when the ailerons unplugged just after takeoff.

3) I wanted to see what effect a prop shroud would have. The model picked up some speed, but even without it there was more than enough power. It would also be possible to use the Hero 40 as an entry-level ducted-fan aircraft. Getting interested?

Construction. Wing: If you can get a Kaos 40 wing kit, you won't have to cut any ribs. If not, make all of the ribs from sheet. I make photocopies of the ribs, then attach the patterns to the sheet with a glue stick. Remove the pattern from the wood right after you cut the rib, before the glue has a chance to set.

Lay down the spars as shown, then glue the ribs in place. (I used Titebond H for the entire wing.) Glue the top spars in place. Place a tapered jig under the rear of all the ribs. Glue the trailing edge to the rear of ribs. Make the trailing-edge sheeting from a 25-inch-long piece of 3/32 sheet..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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