Red Hot Angel (oz6581)

About this Plan

Red Hot Angel. Vintage control line model, for .19 to .29 power.

Update 25/04/2015: Replaced this plan with a cleaned up and scaled version, thanks to rchopper56.

Update 27/5/2026: Added article, thanks to dfritzke.

Quote: "Different, fast, stuntable, but not intended for competition - or beginners. On a 19 to 23 engine, it doesn't mix with daydreaming. Red Hot Angel, by Walter Musciano.

The 'Red Hot Angel' is the latest in the author's long series of realistically styled, sport-stunt 'Angel' designs that have been built and flown all over the world for over 20 years. This model is patterned after the early Soviet ram-jet fighter designs, and therefore sports Red Air Force insignia. It is not intended for the novice nor is it designed for competition flying but, rather, as a fun-type model for the modeler with some flying experience. It is fast, sensitive and provides some interesting Sunday and high-class sport flying. The comparatively hot flying characteristics, coupled with the Soviet markings, resulted in the name of Red Hot Angel.

A glance at the plans reveals an un-symmetrical wing with the inboard half of the wing larger than the half on the outside of the flight circle. This configuration aids in keeping the inboard wing high by virtue of the larger wing's increased lift, thereby helping to prevent the plane from rolling in on the flier when it is high on the lines. In general, the unsymmetrical wing aids immeasurably in maintaining taut flight lines. Unsymmetrical wings are common on most stunt models today, but when the author introduced this feature on a stunt model design a quarter of a century ago there were many who shook their heads in disbelief!

Any glow-plug or diesel engine from .19 to .23 can be installed. Construction is simple and sturdy with a sparless wing, laminated fuselage and solid tail surfaces. For the sake of economy, only three sizes of balsa and one of plywood are required for construction. However, some readers may prefer to use additional sizes rather than laminate as we describe.

Construction: Wing: The leading edge is laminated with two 1/2 x 1 in balsa strips. Each must be cut in one piece from tip to tip because the leading edge is the main structural member of the wing. Each piece is cut from the 1/2 in balsa plank. Use a metal yardstick or straight-edge to be sure you cut a straight line. Cement the two 112 x 1" pieces together to form a one-inch square piece.

The trailing edge must be constructed from two pieces because of the tapered wing shape. It also must be laminated using two layers of 1/8 x 1
balsa. Cut the strips from 1/8 balsa and, using plenty of cement, join two pieces together to form a 1/4 x 1 in strip. Place weights on the trailing edge and let dry overnight.

Trace the wing ribs onto tissue or tracing paper and then transfer onto 1/8 balsa and cut to shape with a single-edge razor blade. Notice that holes for the leadout wires are drilled or punched in the inboard wing ribs. Cut the leading and trailing edges to proper length and mark off the location of the ribs. Note that the trailing edge halves are joined by means of a long splice. This is important. Cut 1/8 wide notchs in the leading and trailing edges for the wing ribs.

Trace and cut the plywood bellcrank mount to shape with a coping saw. Cement this into the slots of the center ribs and then cement all the ribs into the leading and trailing edge notches, holding them in place with straight pins, pressed into the wood, until the cement dries. During this assembly the trailing edge pieces are well-cemented together. Check the wing alignment and correct any warps that may appear by gentle twisting of the structure. Smear more cement around each rib joint and add the gussets. Notice that two tip ribs are required. These should be well-cemented to each other before assembly. Check the wing alignment again and apply more cement to all joints.

The leadout wires are now attached to the large Veco bellcrank. Bend the ends into a loop, bind with very fine, soft wire, and solder. Pass the leadout wires through the holes in the ribs and bolt the bellcrank to the plywood mount. Cut the control rod to length and bend each end as shown. One end is bent up and the other sideways. Slip the forward end through a hole in the bell-crank arm..."

Supplementary file notes

Article.
Previous version of scan.

Corrections?

Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)? That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction