Se-5 (oz6358)

About this Plan

Se5. Radio control scale model WWI biplane, built to Peanut scale at 13 inch wingspan.

Quote: "Full size plans for Ken Willard's Peanut Scale SE-5.

OK, fellows. We got the message. Last November we published some photos and a brief description of a Peanut Scale Se-5. At the time, it had been demonstrated at the Pioneers's Biplane Bash, and shortly thereafter it was flown at the WWI Jamboree at Hill Country Air Museum.

Because it really is a special purpose design, I didn't know whether enough of you would want to have plans, so I asked you to write in you wanted them. From the mail I received, it is evident that you'd like to try it too. So here are the plans and some hints on building and flying it. I can summarize very quickly, it's a helluva lot easier to build than it is to trim out and fly, but once it is trimmed out, it will amaze you with its stability, even though the response rate to the controls is very rapid under power - and has to be if you want any control at ail when the engine quits. More about that later. Right now, let's get on with the building hints and kinks.

Fuselage. No problem. Two flat sides, a fire-wall, two formers, a tail post, with some 1/16 square longerons. The formers, or bulkheads if you prefer, are spaced so that the Cannon Super-Mini Block just fits inbetween them, and there's room up forward for a Super-Mini servo, the switch, and a 100ma battery pack which must be removed from the case and taped together because of the cramped space.

Add to this basic structure a turtledeck and headrest aft of the cockpit (but don't Zap it in place before you've got the radio gear and pushrods aligned), and a removable hatch from the cockpit forward to the firewall, to which the cabane structure artd the upper wing are permanently attached, and there's your fuselage.

Add a cowl, carved from soft balsa. and the decorative cylinder head covers, and there you have it. Once you get the parts cut out and ready to assemble, a quick Zap job, with some micro-balloons at the corners of the firewall and sides for added strength, holds the whole thing together. The plans show wood sizes and placement. Please, if you're a beginner, don't write and tell me I didn't give enough detail. I know that, I also know that this plane is not for beginners - sometimes I wander if its really for experts - but I do know it's fun.

Note that the hatch has to be hollowed out to accommodate the servo arms - and tailoring the pushrods is also a chore, Since the forces are very light. I straightened out some small paper dips - they bend easily, but are strong enough for this purpose one they have been shaped. It you do this, you'll have to solder a couple together to have a piece long enough for each pushrod, When you've got them all lined up with the control surfaces and some bends are needed — then you can Zap the turtledeck in place permanently...."

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