Cassutt Model 2 (oz6280)

About this Plan

Cassutt Model 2. Radio control scale model racer. Wingspan 41 in, wing area 604 sq in, for .41 - .61 engines.

Quote: "Chosen as the First Place Winner in RCM's design contest, this one quarter scale Cassutt builds into a beautiful model that not only flies well but offers no transportation problems because of size. By Donald C Hewlings.

After seeing the 3-views of the Cassutt 2 racer in EAA Magazine, May 1962, my first impression was, 'Boy, that would make a beautiful model, some day I will build it!' Numerous times over the years the pictures were pulled out, looked over and the words 'some day' uttered again. Last October, hunting a new challenge, out came the Cassutt 2 pictures again that some day finally arrived!

What size plane do I want? What scale? Overall length is 48 inches at 1/4 scale: wing spread is 41 in; chord is 14-3/4 in; Wing area 604.75 sq inches. Material plus radio and engine was estimated to equal 5-3/4 lbs to 6-1/4 lbs finished weight.

Here you have a 1/4 scale aircraft that will fly with a good .40 engine in its nose or really perform with a .60 engine. The real plane had a top speed of 240 mph (114 scale equals 60 mph).

With the above calculations laying on the dining room table in front of me, and a glass of refreshment in my hand, the decision was made. I could go 1/4 scale without buying a new engine and have a plane that is easily transported in most any car - a plane that fits the bill as a 1/4 scale pylon plane or a fine subject for scale buffs.

The plans are as near scale as possible with four exceptions,namely:

(1) scale spinner should be 2-7/8 in (commercially available spinners are 2-3/4 or 3 in, I chose the 3 in).
(2) the strip ailerons.
(3) the size of the tail wheel.
(4) the canopy - more about these later.

Having dreamed, designed, cut, fit, and built this bird, read the next line and decide if you fit the plane. If you are the type of builder who wants three bulkheads, and four slabs to make a fuselage with, a ready made foam wing, some iron-on covering, and be out at the field next weekend wih a new bird, don't read any further! But if you have some time to spare and aren't afraid of a challenge, read on - the finished product is worth it.

This Cassutt is not for the beginner builder but if you have built two or three kits and one or two scratch-builts you should have no problems. After all, scratch-building is only making your own kit before you assemble it, right? Use loving care as you make each piece, remember you are the craftsman or butcher who has to use these pieces during assembly, you decide which.

What building technique to use was my next hurdle. After much sketching and planning I decided to try a new method (probably not new to some of you but it was new to me). I decided to hang eight plywood bulkheads on two 1/4 x 1/2 in spruce stringers running internally through these bulkheads (Photo #1). This seemed to sound like a very strong frame. Add a 1/8 balsa skin and, with all those external angles, they should give plenty of strength for a tail-dragger on rough field landings.

Use solid balsa parts for the empennage. The wing scale thickness came out to .999in. If foam is used, spruce spars and sheeting should be used so I decided to build up the wing with double 'I' beams plus 1/16 in balsa sheeting which raises the G forces well into the safety zone.

Now to the nitty gritty of the fuselage. Lay your 1/4 x 1/2 in beams (wishbone) over the plan view and mark the angle points behind bulkheads No.4. Mark the bevel angles at the tail. Now cut the tail bevel angles; carefully cut a narrow 'V' notch 3/4 in through the angle points behind bulkhead No.4. Replace on the plan view and dry fit these parts. When you are satisfied that they match the plan, epoxy the angle joints and epoxy the bevel joints at the tail..."

Cassutt Model 2 from RCM issue 04-75.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

Article pages, text and pics.

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