Nomad (oz6264)
About this Plan
Nomad. Powered glider for single channel RC.
Quote: "Nomad, by Ted Strader. Take a whack at R/C Soaring. Nomad's perfect for the job - with relaying receiver, 48in span, 9-1/2 oz. Simple structure, a good beginners ship.
Here's hoping there are a lot of R/C modelers who, like ourselves, have been looking for a real change of pace. We've toyed with the idea of designing an R/C sailplane for about as long as we've been interested in controlled flight. Until recently it remained nothing more than an idea. Several sketches were made, exploratory drawings worked up, only to be put back in the files for a later date.
When it was finally decided that an R/C sailplane was to be the next project, we hoped it would be several things, not the least of which was successful!
The final product, tagged 'Nomad', has many attributes. It is not too small and not too large. Though extremely simple to build, it has pleasing lines and has proved its appeal on the field. As its designer we must admit many moments of pride at the acclaim it has received by those who have seen it perform.
We must also confess we were a bit skeptical as to whether the tiny .020 (mid the one shown has been on four other planes!) would haul our 48 inch sailplane and its 9-1/2 ounces of bulk. Several test glides indicated that Nomad is no problem to balance and adjust, but until we fired up our veteran engine, we skill had doubts that there would be enough thrust to give us more than a powered landing!
With the test glides taken care of, we next did a range check to prepare the Citizenship LT-3 receiver, in the event our first powered flight was successful. Once satisfied all gear was in readiness, we fired up the engine. As luck would have it, our engine at least sounded ferociousl But it sure didn't feel like there was much prop blast from the .020 back at the tail.
There wasn't too much of a gamble involved - for as we have already stated, the worst that could happen would be a powered landing. There was only a whisper of a breeze as we launched our her and held our breath, It wouldn't have been so hard to let go if there hadn't been so many eyes focused on our maiden night. The launch was easy - after all, how much steam is needed to throw 9-1/2 oz?
The Nomad shot forward, losing abut a foot of altitude in about 30 feet and then began its ascent. We let it move out about 200 feet, as straight as a die, before giving it any control. By this time it was about 50 feet high and ready for its first command. We haven't had this much fun in a long, long time!
Ten nights were logged that afternoon before it became so dark we had to call thing's to a halt, When it Mile time to pile things back into the trunk there were several new converts to Rie SailpIaning gathered around, all Wantin g a set 01 plan to build a duplicate. Of course they weren't available on the spot but will now be through "Special &titian Plans', for those who have been looking for a change of pace and want to get started right away. We didn't mean to ramble on so. but just had to let you in on some of the experiences that you're in for.
Fuselage: Transfer the basic fuselage outline onto two sheets of 1/16 medium grade balsa. Cut out and compare each for accuracy. Lightly score each side piece at No.2 position for the slight break. Cement the 1/16 sheet reinforcing strips, as shown at spot where wing rests on fuselage. Alter No.2 to accept the escapement to be used. Plans show position and mounting holes and slots for the Citizenship PSN-2 escapement. The opening and slots are shown so escapement may be removed if desired.
Actual construction begins by cementing No.2 in place along with F-1 & F-2. If these three pieces are accurately cut, alignment of the final fuselage assembly is almost assured, Bulkheads 3A & 3B are of 1/16 sheet each. The only difference is that 3A is cut out as shown to accommodate the center dihedral break of the wing, The remaining bulkheads can be cemented in place and left to dry.
Escapement torque rod is next. Make certain it works freely before adding top and bottom sheeting. This done the two formers S-1 and S-2 can be cemented in place and the sheeting of the top and bottom begun. The hatch is very lightly cemented in place until all sanding is done and then removed and a cloth hinge attached. The nose block of soft balsa block is added and trimmed to shape. If a FF version is your goal, hollow out a portion of the nose block to hold some lead shot, which will be needed to balance the finished model..."
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Supplementary file notes
Article, thanks to DavidTerell.
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(oz6264)
Nomad
by Ted Strader
from Flying Models
August 1961
48in span
IC Glider R/C Trainer
clean :)
all formers complete :)
got article :) -
Submitted: 12/01/2015
Filesize: 293KB
Format: • PDFbitmap
Credit*: JJ
Downloads: 3436
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User comments
I built a lot of these back in the dark ages when radio was not so reliable. While the multi channel boys were destroying models, our Nomads just flew and flew. This plan is the original version as published in the magazine with an inadequate wing design, all of which folded. The kit version added a spar on the bottom of the wing, also a little weak. A spruce spar cured the problem. It turns better if you increase the dihedral by about an inch at each wingtip by using the tip dihedral brace at the center section also. It's not that it won't turn as designed, it's just slow to recover once a turn is started, a bit more dihedral and it's fine. This would make a fun electric these days, choose a high RPM motor because of the small prop clearance. As to power required, a PEE WEE 020 was too much but a Cox 010 wasn't quite enough. A 300 or 370 electric should be about right. Thanks again for your site,DougSmith - 24/01/2015
Steve, I recently found these old pix of my last Nomad, built about 1974 [006-009]. It didn't last long. I foolishly used a balsa spar instead of a proper spruce replacement. My Pee Wee 020 was too much for the Nomad and it started to get up there really high. Trying to spiral it down from altitude, the wing folded. The radio did not survive. In magazines of the day, Mattel advertised a single channel system for a cheap price of something like $29. Me and my buddy Robert each bought one, only to find out why they were so cheap, very limited range, not enough to fly a model. But they did include a complete schematic of the receiver, which was AM on 27 MHZ. They used a silicon transistor with no bias as an AM detector, which required about .6 volts before it started to do its job. I replaced it with a germanium transistor requiring only .2 volts to conduct and range was greatly increased. The system came with a magnetic actuator that flopped back and forth all the time, giving somewhat proportional control. The modified radio actually worked well, and I don't know why Mattel didn't make such a simple change instead of dumping the project. We flew them in several little foamies until I moved mine over to the Nomad. No parts were available and I had to retire the radio. ...
DougSmith - 06/10/2015
Continued ... The old pix were pretty well faded and not all that good when first printed. I attempted to adjust color and it's as good as I can get. Just look at that disco haircut. And how about all that proverbial tall grass? Yes, that's an RCA tube caddy used as a field box, which they would give you if you bought enough tubes. A can of Fox Missile Mist fuel is inside, more nitro needed for the Pee Wee. Mine was covered with Jap tissue and clear dope, light and stiff. If you build one, be sure to add a SPRUCE spar, and cover it with something strong like MonoKote, not one of the rubbery coverings, or you risk wing flutter. These things are a lot of fun, might build another one, still have the kit plans ... [See more pics 006-009]
DougSmith - 06/10/2015
This definitely builds into a really nice looking small field glider. I built one of these from a kit, believe it was by House of Balsa. I made a mistake of covering it all in transparent Monokote some 30 years ago. This model was designed to have its wing covered in lightweight silk or silkspan that is clear doped, balsa surfaces are clear doped too with dope color trim, which is light. The otherwise powerful Cox Tee Dee .020 had difficulty lifting it off the ground, even with the lighter weight Ace rudder only Pulse Commander system. It became a display, until broken in a move. Now I look back, I probably could have put a Baby Bee .049 and successfully flown it. Regarding comments on the spar, in the early 1960's, there wasn't any plastic iron on coverings. Covering of choice, silkspan or silk shrink drum tight, provided needed rigidity and strength. Knowing more now, with Monokote, I would have probably folded the wings flying on something more powerful like an .049 (even with the prop on backwards). The newer plastic coverings don't have that strength, hence the hardwood wing spar makes sense to beef up the structure. If I were to build again, I might consider a new lightweight tissue style synthetic covering like Polyspan / Coverite Coverlite or the new lightweight park flyer plastic covering like Coverite Microlite.
ghostler - 07/12/2016
I built two Nomads from kits and never added an engine to either one. I flew them off a gentle slope and they did great with a gentle breeze with a Citizenship LT3 receiver and Bonner escapement. I kept breaking the fuselage at the pod-boom connection where there is a stress riser. I'm currently building two more Nomads and have already included a reverse curve segment to the fuselage side panels at that location to eliminate that problem area.
Bill Kuhlman - 16/03/2021
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- Nomad (oz6264)
- Plan File Filesize: 293KB Filename: Nomad_Ted_Strader_48in_oz6264.pdf
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