Cadet (oz6186)

About this Plan

Cadet. Radio control sport model. 62in span, 630 sq. in area, for .35 - .61 power. Weight 4.5 - 6 lbs.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 13/8/2022: Added article, thanks to theshadow.

Quote: "A STOL Cadet Trainer, by Gene Rogers.

Stingy fields call for steep approaches. Try this mild-mannered parasol type with STOL characteristics. Proportional flaps permit slow-flight and new potential. Pro-Line radio system and a Super Tigre .46 powerplant. It can handle .35's to .60's. Ship spans 62 in, 630 squares of area. Uses a Tatone engine mount, tank and hinges.

When one becomes involved with full scale aircraft flying, as well as model R/C piloting, it becomes apparent just how closely related the two are. A trainer for example, is always a joy to fly, whether you're an Air Force F-101 pilot at the controls of a restored PT-19 trainer or if you happen to be an R/C contest flyer clowning around with a friend's deBolt Champ.

The likeness in performance between light aircraft and RiC models also becomes very apparent to a pilot of both.

The main handicap an R/C flyer must contend with is that he doesn't have the 'feel' of the controls of the aircraft in his hands. Since he doesn't have these control pressures in his hands or against his feet, nor the G forces exerted on the seat of his pants, he must rely on seeing the attitude of his plane in all directions and react accordingly.

The effectiveness of flaps in any full sized aircraft cannot be disputed. They make far steeper, shorter landing approaches, thus clearing obstacles more easily, reducing the touchdown speed and making it much easier to touch down on a given spot on the runway.

These same fine features offered by flaps are just as well appreciated on an R/C plane. A steeper landing descent will allow us to fly out of much smaller fields. Most of our WC planes are amply powered for exhilerating climbs, but it's the landings that require the acreage.

In order to safely and effectively use flaps on a model, the pilot must understand them and control the ship accordingly. When lowering the flaps on a full scale aircraft, the pilot immediately gets a physical reminder in the form of the pressure he must exert on the control column to maintain his proper pitch attitude. To relax this pressure, he then cranks in down elevator trim. A model is not all this lucky, for the modeler flying it will not 'feel' it on the controls and therefore must anticipate this correction with down elevator trim.

The flap area an the Cadet design is of the same proportion to its wing area as used on the full scale Cessna 150 lightplane. The same 40 degrees of rotation as used by Cessna was also applied to the Cadet, This guestimate for the model proved correct, allowing effective flap control, but not to the extreme.

Lowering the flaps can be done simultaneously with down elevator trim control, or it can be accomplished with small increments of each. To be on the safe side, I initially started out by applying down elevator trim first, then lowering the flaps to raise the nose. After a little experimentation I found that full down trim and fully lowered flaps provided an ideal pitch attitude for a landing approach with an idling engine.

Watching the model descend for a landing at a steep angle, but yet at a slow landing speed, adds to the satisfaction and offers refreshed enjoyment to BIC flying. Plying buddy Bob Caplan bet me a delicious pizza I wouldn't land my Cadet in the 50 x 150 foot vacant lot next to his house. After Don McGovern gets all the photos he needs to accompany this text and I get a few more practice landings, I intend to stop over at Bob's on my way to John's Pizzaria, and I don't intend to bring any money with me either! He's just jealous he didn't build flaps on his Cadet version.

The Cadet was designed primarily as a fun type aircraft, to he flown out of small ball-field sized flying sites, making full use of the flaps on landing. The ship will also take-off from very rough surfaces, using partial flaps. However, as with a full sized airplane, the ground run will be shorter with flaps, but the rate of climb will be slightly less. My ship, equipped with the new Super Tigre .46 takes off extremely rapidly without flaps. This engine incidentally will draw fuel for a sustained period of time, with the fuselage held vertically and the throttle set at idling speed!

As a trainer the Cadet will serve very well. It is not only an easy ship to fly, but it is a very simple one to construct. Friend Bob Caplan had the courage to build one simultaneously with mine, before the design was ever flight tested. It appears hopefully in some of the accompanying photos. Bob's model was built without ailerons or flaps as a comparison, and flies very well using rudder for turning.

For a radio system, my Cadet is equipped with the new Pro-Line six channel proportional system. The system seems to be of extremely fine quality in both construction and performance. The controls function in a fast and precise manner, with very fine resolution. The Pro-Line larger type servos were installed in my ship and make a neat package when mounted crosswise in the fuselage. These servos were boxed in with wood rails for ease of installation in other airplanes.

Construction: The construction of the Cadet should not be difficult for a model builder with balsa kit building experience. The crutch type structure of the fuselage makes its assembly both fun and simple. This type structure is very strong and lines itself up automatically. It also offers an infinite variety of fuselage cross-sections. It is a type of structure that should be more popular in RIC design than it presently is.

The easiest way, to scratch-build an airplane is to fabricate your own kit. After studying and understanding the plans completely, cut out all the parts you possibly can, building your own 'custom kit' in effect. This will familiarize you with the design and make assembly much simpler, faster and more enjoyable. It might be wise to purchase two sets of plans, using one set for patterns.

I usually cut the parts right from the plans and rubber cement them to the balsa sheet. When removing the patterns from the balsa, be careful to rub off the rubber cement from the face of the balsa. It comes off easily, but glues and epoxies will not bond to the rubber cement..."

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