Burp (oz6073)

 

Burp (oz6073) by Tom Jolley 1969 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Burp. CL Mouse racer for .049 power.

Quote: "Mouse Racer for .049's (.8 cc). Full Size Plans on Centre Pages for this Ultra Simple C/L Design. Burp, by Tom Jolley.

Construction, in the main, has been kept simple. The only dodgy step is the drilling of the fuselage for the undercarriage leg. Unfortunately, despite much dandruff disturbance, it's the best idea we can come up with.

Balsa cement was not used on the originals at any point because of the ply parts. Araldite, now available in small quantities, is recommended for the joints that you can leave for a number of hours. Those requiring speedier treatment were fixed with Holts Cataloy paste u- seable time about four minutes, and workable after 20-30 minutes.

Now, to the bench, kitchen table, grand piano lid or what-have-you. We always suggest, but never do it - chop out all the parts after you have decided what engine to use. Ensure that the tail slot in the ply fuselage is parallel to the top edge. Cut out the spar slot in the wing and glue the spar in place. Carefully round off all the edges of the tailplane and elevator with very fine glass paper, which should be wrapped around a 6 in length of planed 2 in x 1 in hardwood to give much better control. Finish all edges and surfaces (except wing at this stage) with grade 400 wet or dry paper, used dry.

Hack the wing to the closest approximation that you can manage to the shape shown on the plan. Again finish with glass paper and 400 Wet or Dry paper.

Drill the ply section of the fuselage and having bent the upper part of the leg, push it down through the fuselage. Trim underneath of the wing to seat correctly on the ply.

Sticking time. Attach wing and tailplane to plywood half of fuselage. Check that they align perfectly to each other both in plan, side, and end views. Attach engine former if using radial mounted motor (no offsets necessary). Glue balsa top to fuselage...."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Hi Steve - Here is Tom Jolley's Burp from Aero Modeller magazine issue 01-69. This was a full size center page plan from this issue.

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Article.

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Burp (oz6073) by Tom Jolley 1969 - model pic

Datafile:
  • (oz6073)
    Burp
    by Tom Jolley
    from Aeromodeller
    January 1969 
    14in span
    IC C/L Racer
    clean :)
    all formers complete :)
    got article :)
  • Submitted: 27/10/2014
    Filesize: 148KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: theshadow
    Downloads: 2121

Burp (oz6073) by Tom Jolley 1969 - pic 003.jpg
003.jpg
Burp (oz6073) by Tom Jolley 1969 - pic 004.jpg
004.jpg

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User comments

I built my "Burp" from the full size plans shortly after being published in Aeromodeller back in 1969. Even with a lowly Babe Bee, the model was fast. Remarkable as it seems, we actually flew it while sitting in a swivel chair! I still have the chair all these years later, but never tried this trick again.
My new "Burp" has a Cox Black Widow - and is even faster [main pic, 003]. It's rock solid smooth on the end of the lines - but some dizziness is training required!
Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cur8MIzz4I8
ChrisMoes - 02/11/2020
A friend’s uncle got us a Cox Babe Bee in 1968 or 69. We wanted to learn control line flying. In those days Aeromodellers was available in India, and we could afford to buy a copy occasionally. Like the Jan 69 issue.
The Burp was our first really successful CL model.
We’d take our huge 6G Eveready dry cell, a Singer sewing machine oil squeeze bottle with about 150cc of 80/20 fuel, and fly 10-12 flights one after the other.
Fifty five years since those days, looking at the plan today, I noticed for the first time that the upper engine bearer is longer in the plan view than in the side view!
K.K.Iyer - 21/05/2024
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* Credit field

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Scaling

This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.

 

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