Force 1. Sport delta pusher design for .40 to .45 power.
Quote: "After many prototypes, this mid-engined delta-wing is the designer's latest effort. It has superb flying characteristics, good looks, and best of all is easy to build.
All my modeling life, delta-winged airplanes have fascinated me. One of my first single channel models was a delta. About ten years ago I designed a delta-wing model, from which a whole series of deltas was built. Each one had something improved. Most had the engine up front; some at the back.
The model I am introducing to you now is the first mid-engined effort. It has the best flying characteristics yet. It is easy to build, and the best looking, too.
This model is very fast at full throttle, but can fly so slowly that it almost hovers without stalling. Its small size makes it ideal for easy transportation. The model can be built and flown by any beginner with enough experience to be able to take-off and land a conventional aircraft by himself.
Construction. Study the plan. All parts are numbered and will be referred to by number in the construction article. Cut out all of the parts. Drill all holes where shown. Make sure that the fuselage sides are cut from balsa of the same density. The 1/4 x 1/4 spruce stock must be straight. To speed up construction, I use cyanoacrylate on everything except the firewall, nosegear mounts, and mains.
Wing. Right on top of the plan, glue together the 1/4 x 1/4 spruce leading edge (1), trailing edge (3), and tips (2). Mark the location of the ribs on both the leading edge and trailing edges. This will be the basis of the frame for the wing. When dry, lift the leading edge from the plan and put approximately 2 in support under the nose, leaving the trailing edge on the bench. From now on, you don't have to build on top of the plan.
Glue the ribs (W3, W4, W5, W6, W7) into the frame after you have sanded the front of each rib to conform to the angle of the leading edge, for more gluing surface. Now you will be building the leading and trailing edge of the propeller cutout. Take the small half-ribs (39), and glue them to the strip (18), and glue the half-ribs (40) to the strip (19).
Sheet both sides with parts (12) and (13), and sand to a smooth finish. Now take these two parts and glue them between the ribs (W2) on the positions marked for the leading and trailing edge of the cutout. Then glue the plywood stiffeners (8) on the inside of the two (W2) ribs. Glue the resulting sub-assembly into the main frame..."
Update 17/10/2014: Replaced this plan with a re-scaled version that has wingspan fixed at 36.5in and then aspect ratio re-adjusted to square, thanks to DavidTerrell.
Update 27/02/2017: added article, thanks to RFJ.
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* Credit field
The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.
This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
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