Pink Fink III (oz5893)

About this Plan

Pink Fink III. Control line profile model for .40 power.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 13/8/2022: Added article, thanks to theshadow.

Quote: "Pink Fink, by Art Adamisin.

Along about October of 1963, the first Rat Race contest was held in Michigan. Since everybody in the area knew very little about RR, there were many varied and different designs. The 'Pink Fink I' was designed and built - deriving its name from the bright florescent pink silk on its wings. Pink Fink I placed third.

Several improvements became immediately obvious and Pink Fink II was designed with these improvements incorporated in its design. During the 1964 flying season, Pink Fink II placed in every contest entered. Armed with about a dozen trophies and a whole year's flying experience, Art Adamisin and his family set to work on the Pink Fink III.

The Pink Fink Ill included some additional refinements and some 'dressing up'. At first appearance the PF III appears to be like any other profile racer. But upon closer investigation, a few very significant differences are apparent. First noticeable difference is the solid maple fuselage. This little extra rigidity can mean an additional 400-500 rpm from the engine, to say nothing of the added difference. Actually several different woods have been used with success. Basswood is getting scarce, so when this is not available redwood siding and balsa have been used. Although basswood is perhaps the best, redwood with light ning holes covered with silk as shown on plans is also very good. Balsa used in conjunction with a spruce spar is also excellent. In fact regular soft pine without knots is about as good as anything. With light basswood or balsa, lightning holes are not needed and it is recommended that they not be used.

The other extraordinary feature is the hidden controls. If you want that extra 5 mph or so, it's worth it to spend the extra time hiding the leadouts in the wing and running the pushrod in the fuselage pod. If you get pressed for time, you can just bolt the bellcrank to the outside of the wing and let the leadouts just flap in the breeze.

The landing gear is a simple torque bar, held in place with a single landing gear clip. This system has never failed to give perfect landings and takeoffs.

Construction is simple. The first thing to is to trace out the profiles of all the main parts (wing, fuse, tab) on their respective materials. Cut out wing, shape with a block plane, and finish sand. If lightning holes are desired, trace pattern for the holes on finished wing, cut out and cover with silk. Cut out fuselage and stabilizer. After making ample clearances, install bellcrank, lead outs and pushrod. Slip wing into fuselage and hook up controls, making sure that there is no bind anywhere. Install landing gear. Cut and shape balsa fairing and install. Blind mounting nuts should be used for best performance. The nose should be reinforced with fiberglass cloth or Celastic. Celastic (available through World Engines) is preferred because of its ease of application and its resilient properties. Model should be given two coats of clear dope followed by two coats of epoxy paint.

The engine and tank are of course optional. Just about everybody here in Michigan uses a ST 40 ringed engine. This has proved to be the most successful and durable engine used. The tank is a Veco 21-C or equivalent 3 oz capacity tank. It should be modified to take a fast fill plug. The best quick fills we've found are those of Don's Model Aeronautics in Bellebrook, Ohio.

We definitely recommend the use of a fuel filter. Dirt in the needle has been the cause of more lost races and ruined engines than perhaps anything else.

The model should balance right near the leading edge. A slightly nose heavy model will 'sit in the groove' better. This is very important in long 1000 lap races.

If you have followed the plans closely up to now, you should be off to the races. Flying the PF HI is purely a joy. The model leaps into action immediately upon release. In the air, it is very maneuverable and will loop when necessary to avoid an erratic competitor. PF III will stay with anything in the air. Speeds of over 115 mph have been consistently recorded on an 8-8 nylon prop and Don's 'Combat Blend' fuel. After the engine quits, the model can easily be stopped within half a lap. A second pitman operating a kwik-clip has proved to be the easiest and most efficient method of getting those eight second pit stops.

With Art and his four sons (aged 9, 11, 15, and 16) all flying the design. The PF's have been a familiar sight at most of the contests in the Midwest.

When building the PF III, remember that the ultimate result will only be as good as the time and effort and attention to detail that you put into it. Pay attention to the little things, and never say it'll do. This is the only way to be a consistent winner in the Rat circle."

Supplementary file notes

Article.

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