Sorcerer (oz5853)


Sorcerer (oz5853) by Charlie Parker 1980 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Sorcerer. Radio control powered glider, for electric power. Plan also shows .049 engine installation.

Quote: "Charlie Parker's Sorcerer is a new and radical design in the way of a sailplane. It has proven itself in every respect using electric and glow engine for power. Try it with towhook and high start.

So what is my reason for designing Sorcerer? Well, to be honest, I think sailplane designs are boring. Yep, that's what I said, B-o-r-i-n-g. I wanted a new sailplane some time back, so I trotted down to the local goodie store. Standing there, gazing at all the kits on the shelf. I saw the words new and improved. But. all of a sudden, it occurred to me that they all look the same. The only real difference I could see was an occasional 'T' tail or 'V' tail - and nothing more.

Sorcerer's design is radical. 1 wanted a sailplane I could take to the field that would literally draw a crowd. A sailplane that would make fellow RC'ers ask me even the most basic question - Does it fly? I can safely tell you now that I achieved this goal.

Further, I wanted an electric sailplane. One that would climb like it was shot out of a high start and not lumber into the sky like a lovesick pelican. You will find Sorcerer's climb outstanding. In fact, you will rarely use more than half the motor charge during your flights. Kind of a two for one, so to speak. Once at altitude, shut the motor off. You will witness the flattest glide, for an 'electric' you have ever seen. Sorcerer will catch even the slightest thermal, and utilize every whisper of it. On a good day, half hour flights should be plentiful.

Included in the plans is a .049 glow version and is self-explanatory. This will give you some flexibility. Those of you who like to experiment will find Sorcerer very adaptable. An example. you say? How about clipped wings for working slopes? Or an extended fuselage with a tow hook? Or both? As you can see, you can have several sailplanes by building modified components, making the task of perfecting the design to your specific needs easier.

In short. if Sorcerer has any limitations, they will be your radio batteries, or the stiff neck you have contrived for yourself because you have been looking up for so long!

The construction of Sorcerer is quite conventional. There is nothing that should throw you any curves if you have any experience as a modeler. However, there is a particular order in which you must assemble all the sub-assemblies. If you try to shortcut, all you will end up with is a headache and a crooked sailplane. Don't do it. And don't add to the structure in an effort to make things stronger, all you'll accomplish is to make Sorcerer very fat.

Start by cutting all of the parts needed. Don't forget to cut four tail boom sides, and be sure to make two vertical fins and rudders. A word about wood selection. Pick it carefully. All the balsa needed is medium unless marked otherwise. If you just grab whatever is in the box, you can add as much as a full pound without any problem. Most of the strength in Sorcerer is in the proper placement of the proper wood..."

Supplementary file notes

Article pages, text and pics.


Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)? That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction

Sorcerer (oz5853) by Charlie Parker 1980 - model pic


Sorcerer (oz5853) by Charlie Parker 1980 - pic 003.jpg
Sorcerer (oz5853) by Charlie Parker 1980 - pic 004.jpg

Do you have a photo you'd like to submit for this page? Then email

User comments

Hi Steve, I thought I would send you the pics of the Sorceror twin tail 82in glider [see more pics 003, 004]. This is Charlie Parkers plan for RCM from 1980. I love sailplanes, and the twin booms just appealed to me as different. So I made a list of wood, cut a lot of ribs and parts, and started work. Took me about 4 months to get her built. I was very impressed with how well designed the plan is, assembly is very straightforward. The nose took me a long time as I sorta freehanded it, I was not going to use a motor, and a wanted a distinct canopy line, so it bulges a bit. First test flights are good, but the heavy nose weight is limiting me. A early trim ground loop cracked one of the booms. Final trim and a Mobius camera up front should get this lady flying a well behaved pattern. Lessons: 1. I'd flatten the ribs towards the tips, they get shorter, but not thinner. 2. Tail weight, tail weight, tail weight. Keep it light. This is causing me to go heavy on noseweight to balance. Longer nose by another 6-8 inches if not using electric power. 3. I'd lengthen the straight part of the wing panels by 2-3 bays for better aspect ratio if not using electric power. 4. More initial angle on the cable runs in the midwing, and more careful work on the exit of the controls to make mounting servos easier, this proved to be a bear to complete. Try to place the cable exit at the bottom of the wing at the center, and more towards the top near the booms. And don't run them straight across the W2 ribs, angle them to make a larger radiused loop. 5. The elevator control must have tube and tube support as close to the elevator as possible. I think bellcranks and 1/16" music wire 'rods' might work better. Flex at this control point causes really bad control 'reversals'...
JoeRobertson - 23/06/2015
...Hard hinges are also required, 'monokote' hinges flex too much. 6. I think on the plans the ribs are too thick, I would thin the peak height portion 1/16" overall. I used the complete boom opening space to fit the wing center section. 7. Keep the boom wing openings uncut until you get the booms built and are fitting to the center wing. This makes it easier to work the boom build. Thanks for the great site. I hope to contribute an out of print plan soon. Regards,
JoeRobertson - 23/06/2015
THANK YOU! Both Steve , for hosting and Joe [hlsat], for sending in the plans for this glider. I've wanted to build this, years ago, but did not order from RCM, as they were having problems with the magazine and the plans service was "not recommended" by other modelers. Now I can get it printed and make some balsa dust! Thanks again,
ReneW - 25/06/2015
Add a comment



Download File(s):


* Credit field

The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.


This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.


Terms of Use

© Outerzone, 2011-2024.

All content is free to download for personal use.

For non-personal use and/or publication: plans, photos, excerpts, links etc may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Outerzone with appropriate and specific direction to the original content i.e. a direct hyperlink back to the Outerzone source page.

Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site's owner is strictly prohibited. If we discover that content is being stolen, we will consider filing a formal DMCA notice.