Butterfly. Radio control powered glider for .15 engines.
Quote: "The Butterfly is, indisputably, the easiest to fly R/C trainer ever designed. The design presented here is a new easy to build design, incorporating all of the easy to fly features of the original Butterfly II.
There must be a starting point - a place to begin. These instructions begin with the assumption that the builder has previously built a balsa wood flying model and has a knowledge of the terms (or a dictionary) and has a basic understanding of how to read plans. The most prevalent problem faced by professional designers is communication. We can't communicate with you unless you read and understand what is written and, unless you have 100% reading comprehension (nobody has) maybe some re-reading is in order. Read each section over carefully, then re-read each step and perform each operation as required. DON'T GET AHEAD. Stay with the program unless you find pleasure in doing things over. CONFUCIUS say: 'He who jump ahead, spend money backing up'
The process of printing large drawings is not exact. Parts such as the fuselage sides and frames and wing ribs are made by a process far more accurate than printing. In the event that the parts don't exactly fit the plans, the part dimension shall rule.
Balsa trees don't grow straight, however CRAFT AIR carefully selects the straightest pieces. Plywood is flat when packed. Experience has taught us that because of humidity changes and the proximity of parts to the cardboard box, warpage of pieces does occur. Since this warpage is the result of uneven moisture absorption on opposite sides of a wood piece, it can easily be straightened by first wetting the piece then ironing it straight with a household iron.
Start by identifying all parts. It's quite easy to use the wrong stock and then come up short. So plan your stock use to prevent this, especially if there isn't a hobby shop handy. Cut the longest pieces from a given stock first. Use waxed paper to cover the plans when building structures to prevent the structures from sticking to the plans. Engineering drawing conventions are used. These include:
All dimensions are in inches unless stated.
All wood is balsa unless noted.
Wood end grain is shown as dots.
Wood long grain is shown as lines or lines and dots.
Hardwood has closer grain marks than balsa.
Fin: The fin is the vertical stabilizer, forward of the rudder.
1. Cover the fin and rudder view with wax paper.
2. Cut and pin down the 1/4 X 3/8 rudder post The rudder post is the trailing piece of the fin to which the rudder is hinged.
3. Complete the framing of the fin with 1 /4 square balsa Type C or A.
4. Install the 1/8 x 1/4 ribs..."
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 04/06/2015: Added wing rib templates file, thanks to EricRMetzdorf.
Quote: "anon commented that there are no rib patterns. I created these based on print submitted and should suffice. Template is (2) sheets, 11 X 17 so any std. printer should work. Regards."
Wing rib templates.
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* Credit field
The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.
This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
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