Focke-Wulf Stosser (oz5737)

About this Plan

Focke-Wulf Stosser. Scale rubber model.

Quote: "Complete plans and directions for building a high performance miniature of a world-famous German sportster. Focke-Wulf Stosser, by Paul Plecan And Roger Hammer.

Any model builder who has looked for a model that was one hundred percent scale and yet stable enough for flight with the scale tail surfaces, will know how rare such a model is. The Focke-Wulf Stosser fills the bill. Scale outlines of the tail surfaces are shown on the plans, as they have been proven to be of sufficient size for a stable flying model.

Used mainly for training purposes, the Stosser mounts an Argus inverted V-6 engine which gives it a top speed of 167 miles per hour. The cruising speed is 154 mph, and the landing speed is 56 mph. The Stosser is a familiar sight to many, as it was brought over by Gerd Acheglis for participation in the acrobatic events at the past few National Air Races. The plans reproduced on the next few pages will produce an accurate model of Gerd Acheglis' original ship, that is, if they are followed explicitly.

Fuselage. Since the fuselage is the toughest part, let us tackle it first. Cut out the master stringers and formers. Before proceeding any further, note that there are two notches in the tail end of each side master stringer. Mark off the positions of all the formers on each master stringer, and cut the grooves in the formers. After assembling, check the whole unit for alignment, as some of the master stringers are bound to be slightly warped. The tail hook - tail skid may be bent to shape and cemented in place now, as there are no stringers to impede your work. After this has been done, cement the 1/16 in square stringers in their respective places. .Check again for alignment, and correct if any warps are apparent. Trace the side view of the engine nacelle (or cowl) on a soft balsa block measuring 2 x 2-1/8 x 3 inches. After shaping to conform with the side view, repeat the process for the top view. Cut down the outside of the cowl to the correct cross-section and sand until smooth. Apply dope (wood filler is better for this if it is available) and sand very smooth when dry.

The cowl should be cut in half now, and hollowed out to the thicknesses shown on the plans. Cement together, and conceal the saw mark where the cowl was cut in half by applying successive coats of dope and sanding. The nose plug can also be made at this time, and care should be taken to have it fit quite snugly, as adjustments are easier this way. The front portion should be of very hard balsa, as it will take a lot of abuse. Cement the two parts together and add the two washers. (Note the slight right thrust and larger amount of down thrust.)

The landing-gear struts should be bent to shape and cemented to the fuselage. The front wire strut is bent back at the bottom to provide an axle for the 1-1/4 in balsa wheel. Cut the balsa strut to the right size and insert between the two wire struts, cementing well. The fuselage covering maybe applied now, in small strips. Do not forget to add piece A to the tops of formers 6 and 7, as it supports the stabilizer. The fillet block in front of former 6 should be carved now and cemented in place, and the whole unit doped, since this will be harder when all the struts and details have been added..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

Article pages, text and pics.

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