Minnie Mambo (oz5733)
About this Plan
Minnie Mambo. 1/2A single channel RC trainer, from Sterling. Kit # FS9.
Note this plan does not include printwood formers, although there is an alternate (modern re-drawn) plan at Minnie Mambo (oz620) which could help to fill in the gaps.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Planfile include full build instructions.
Quote: "GENERAL INFORMATION AND PRECONSTRUCTION NOTE: Pay careful attention to, and follow the notes step by step exactly as they appear on the plans. Examine the drawings before starting construction. For maximum strength, coat parts with cement (lightly), allow to dry, and then join with second coat. This is known as pre-glueing.
WING ASSEMBLY: STEP 1: Build wing on flat surface, directly over plan Cover plan with wax paper to prevent frame from sticking. Take time and care in construction using plenty of cement and allowing ample drying time so that wing is built straight without warps. Prepare to assemble wing frame by cementing half the length of plywood dihedral gussets W4, W5 & W6 to the leading edge spar and trailing edge as shown in sketch. Allow to dry thoroughly.
Pin trailing edge down on plan. Slide ribs onto spar in numerical order shown. Insert ribs into notches in both the leading and trailing edge. Pin down leading edge against front of ribs and cement all ribs securely. Cement rear corner gussets W7 in place. Cement wing tip floor W10 against rib W2 Cement triangular tip gussets W8 and W9 in place at location shown on sketch and wing drawing against W2 and flush with top of rib, use cement generously and hold parts with pins if necessary, until thoroughly dry. Bottom center section covering is shown on sketch for clarity only. It is installed in next step. Opposite wing panel is built in same manner.
When both wing panels are thoroughly dry, they are assembled to each other to form complete wing. Apply coat of glue to protruding plywood dihedral gussets and ribs and then slide opposite panel in place. Pin down one panel to flat surface and raise other panel until bottom of rib is 3-9/16 high, which will make plywood gussets flush with leading edge, trailing edge and spar. When dry, all center section dihedral joints (especially the butt joints) should be given an additional heavy coat of cement to insure maximum strength and wing set aside to dry thoroughly. Check wing constantly, to see that it does not develop any warps.
STEP 2: Cover bottom of center section (rib W1) with 1/16 x 3 in sheet balsa. Cover the top leading edge of wing with 1/16 x 3 x 22 in sheet cut in half to make two pieces 1-1/2 in wide. Carve leading edge to accept this sheeting. Note: ribs W2 are notched to receive this covering and that it extends over and is cemented to top of leading edge. Cover the top center section of wing as shown with remainder of 1/16 x 3 in sheet balsa. All sheet covering can be held in place with pins until thoroughly dry. When structure is completely dry, remove any pins and sand smooth with fine sand paper. Leading edge and sheeting is sanded to match curve shown on side view. Carve and then finish by block sanding trailing edge. Bend metal tabs from any available thin metal (tin can may be used) and cement to trailing edge at location shown This will prevent being damaged by rubber bands which hold wing on model.
Cover wing with silkspan (applied wet) grain running spanwise. Check wing constantly while covering to prevent any warps from developing. When silkspan is dry, apply two coats of clear dope. If warp should occur, apply an additional coat of dope and twist wing in opposite direction, holding until dry. Wing is now ready to be painted as described in final assembly note.
STABILIZER ASSEMBLY: Pin 3/16 x 3/8 leading edge, 3/16 square x 15 in spar, and 3/16 x 5/8 x 16 trailing edge, directly on plan. Cement two stabilizer wing tips together to form double layer tip. Make two. Cement in place between leading and trailing edge, slipping spar into notch as shown.
Cap ribs are 1/16 x 1/4 balsa. Cut to length and cement cap ribs in place flush with leading and trailing edge, which will cause them to bow, as shown. Make the center section cap ribs from 1-1/2 wide_ (Recommend this center section to be solid for stab/fuselage interface strength.) Allow structure to dry, then turn over and install bottom cap ribs in same manner..."
Update 12/4/2025: Added kit review (of the Early RC kit) from Flying Models, April 2007, thanks to RFJ.
Supplementary file notes
Review.
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User comments
The Minnie Mambo was the first RC plane I built in the summer of 1975. I used a digital pulse single channel radio from America's Hobby Center in NYC, powered it with a Testor's .049 and I covered it with Monokote. Making sure of the alignment of all surfaces and the center of gravity, I launched the plane in a cow pasture near my home. With the rudder slapping side to side, the little plane climbed slowly and I made a couple of wide turns before it ran out of gas then landing softly in between the cow patties. By the end of summer, I could loop and roll the plane using only the rudder, the wind and careful timing. I'll not forget those single channel days. The plane today might be a good match for a small PAW diesel or electric and upgrade to two channels. Either way, it could be a fun small plane to do some relaxing flying in a small field. Cheers.Marko99 - 16/07/2019
Attached are a couple of photos of my current Minnie Mambo [main pic, 006-009]. The first one I had was over 50 years ago. It was my introduction the radio control. Flown as a single channel rudder-only radio control with a Controlaire Mule MK II transmitter, Controlaire 5 receiver, Elmic Commander rubber driven escapement and powered by a Cox Babe Bee.049. It was pure magic being able to steer the plane about the sky (most times) and not have to chase after it. This one was built recently with modern 2.4 GHz receiver and servo operating the rudder only, and using a modernized late 50's Ace Commander transmitter upgraded to 2.4. I have as much fun with this as any of my modern multichannel hi powered planes - maybe more! Thanks for keeping our fascination with flight alive through your amazing plans website. Regards,
Mike Foster - 12/11/2021
I will wax nostalgic here, just a little. The Minnie Mambo, the Papillon and the Ace All Star were the 3 planes that really taught me how to fly. I could grab a plane and my mini pit kit, and walk 2 blocks to the schoolyard and fly until I either crashed, ran out of fuel, ran out of battery, ran out of light, or just got tired of flying. Ah, simpler times. The Mambo was suprisingly good in the wind, which is always stronger than one would like. Perhaps it was the 500mah battery plus 2 standard size servos (known as “mini” back then) and the big old receiver acting as a good 7 ounces of ballast in the fuselage. I had other planes, but none hung in there as long as these 3 planes did. Dave
fritzke - 14/03/2024
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- Minnie Mambo (oz5733)
- Plan File Filesize: 751KB Filename: Minnie_Mambo_36in_oz5733.pdf
- Supplement Filesize: 836KB Filename: Minnie_Mambo_36in_oz5733_review_FM.pdf
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Notes
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Scaling
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