Berryloid Trophy Winner (oz56)

About this Plan

Berryloid finish contest winner 1938 Nationals. Wings are slightly swept back. These are the original article pages, as printed.

Quote: "Berryloid Trophy Winner. An unusual gas model distinguished for its beautiful construction, finish, and stability. By Harold Coovert.

THE event for the best-finished gas model attracts an impressive line-up of ships. At first glance they all seem to be perfectly finished - the beautiful finish that most builders dream about but few realize. Each model represents hundreds of hours of work. Two hundred and fifty hours were spent building and finishing the model described in this article. Thoroughness is the main thing. No detail can be neglected. Each individual item must be given careful attention, since every part contributes to the appearance of the finished model.

This model is a successful flier and is worth the investment of a good finish. With a little careful judgment in flying, there is no reason why the finish should be marred by crack-ups and subsequent repairs. The instructions for finishing can readily be applied to any model. Or if you're more interested in flying than beautifying a model, this design certainly rates attention, since it earned the title of a successful gas model before it took additional honors for the best finish.

FUSELAGE: It is a practice of most model builders to get the hardest part of the model finished first, so general instructions will follow. For the fuselage, a full-size side view should be laid out on wrapping paper. Notice that the dimensions are given to the reference line. The 1/4 square longerons are pinned to the drawing to hold them firmly in place while the cement is drying. The upright pieces are also cut to the proper length from 1/4 square balsa. The diagonal pieces are cut from 1/8 x 1/4 stock. The 1/8 fillets, part H and the fairing piece below are cemented so as to be flush with the outside when completed.

When side frames are thoroughly dry, the cross-members are cut from 1/4 square and cemented in place. It is best to start at the windshield and work back, being sure to keep the fuselage lined up properly. Parts F and G are cut from 1/8 flat stock. They are 1/4 wide at the windows, tapering back to 1/8. Formers B, C and D are cut from 1/8 stock. They are shown full size on the pattern sheet. Refer to Section A-A for the next step. 1/8 x 1/4 strip stock is used full length for this. Cement in place as shown. Sand to cross section given. These should not be rounded off where the wing rests on the fuselage. The 3/16 dowel window braces are cut and placed. Former A and E are cut from 1/4 three-ply fir (full-size patterns).

If the swiveling tail wheel is used, part N is cut from 1/4 in balsa stock. Drill the four 3/32 holes before cementing in place. Former E is not cemented in place until the landing gear is assembled to fuselage. The motor mount pieces are cut and drilled as designated on the drawing, as well as the 1/4 V-piece at side of motor mounts. The trapdoor is cut from 1/4 flat balsa and lightened as shown. It should be strengthened with 1/8 x 1/4 strips of bass wood on the bottom as shown in dotted lines. This is not necessary if a fine finish is not desired. Aluminum tubing, 1/16 outside diameter, is sunk into the leading edge of door, and pieces of L-shaped .032 music wire form the complete hinge. It is held is place with a pin on each side at the rear. The cowl is cut from 1/32 three-ply birch. A full-size pattern is given. Do not attach at this time.

LANDING GEAR: The main part of the landing gear is formed from 1/8 music wire. Study the drawings before doing any actual work. It is a good plan to make a full-size layout to assure a good job. The V strengthening piece, front view, is bent from 1/16 music wire. When all three pieces are finished, they are bound tightly with #24 soft iron wire and soldered well. Add the small circular pieces, .032 music wire, at the top of the front strut which holds the rubber from slipping down. When finished, it is attached to the fuselage by wrapping with string and cementing generously. Proceed to cement bulkhead E in place. The drawing on the tail wheel is self-explanatory, except that a piece of inner tube can be put in back of the main assembly C. This greatly helps the shock-absorbing effect... "

Update 11/06/2013: Have added a supplement version of the main plan drawing, now scaled up to full size.

Supplementary file notes

Planfile includes article.
Main plan sheet (page 6) scaled up to full-size, at 62 x 43in.

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