Night Hawk. Gull-wing sailplane by Frank Ehling, from Model Airplane News, May, 1945.
Quote: "Lost your glider to thermals? Then avoid them by flying this high performance soarer at night. Night Hawk, by Frankk Ehling.
FLYING by night is not new, but when flying by day means there is a chance of losing our model we stop and think. That was how the 'Night Hawk' was born. This ship will fly as well at night as any during the day. However, here where this model was built, daytime thermals are as strong as any we ever witnessed - and as there is still a shortage of balsa we thought twice before we flew her even at night.
We soon found our fears in vain. The gull dihedral works well but is harder to adjust than the conventional dihedral. While flying at night there is less wind so a beginner has a greater chance of getting her in the air. The ship has a real flat glide and can be flown without having to chase it all over the countryside to recover her once she is on her own. She can be adjusted to fly in circles and land very near the takeoff spot. (This ought to induce anyone to build her.)
Balsa was used in the construction, but pine can be used successfully if all parts are reduced in size. The wing and stabilizer plan along with the rudder should be drawn to the required size. This is all that will be needed.
FUSELAGE: Cut the formers to size and notch. Then take two 1/4 in squares and cement together at one end. Measure from the end of the fuselage and see where the first former will be located. Cement in place and continue forward to the nose of the ship until all are in posi-tion. Now cut the keel to shape and cement in place. This should be done while the fuselage is still on the table as that will align the lower part so as to get a perfect job.
When the lower formers are all cemented in place and dry, the top formers should be added. The stringers are now joined. The nose block should be added and carved to shape, after which which it should be sanded well and doped. Take a pencil and wrap a piece of sandpaper around it and sand out the former between the stringers. This will afford a smooth covering job and the formers will not protrude.
WING: Since the plans have to be drawn up this should be done first. The ribs are now cut to shape as explained on the plans. Simply place one rib tem-plate over the other and mark the lower one to the required length. Slide the template down until the upper edge of the rib coincides to the mark at the lower edge of the rib..."
Update 18/01/2019: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
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