DH Gypsy Moth (oz5210)
About this Plan
DH Gypsy Moth. Radio control stand-off-scale model biplane for .15 to .20 power.
Quote: "Of the many thousands of DH 60 Gypsy Moths which were made between 1925 and the mid-1930s, only about 36 examples remain, 7 of which are in the USA. So if you want a Gypsy, you'll either have a long wait, or will have to make do with a model! The first scale model I ever saw performing was a big, light 5 ft span, single channel Gypsy Moth back in 1958, and I've had a soft spot for the ship ever since. One day, the urge became unbearable, the drawing paper came out ... and there she was!
The model is not far from scale. The engine compartment is slightly wider than scale in order to accommodate the HB .20; the wing section is 12% Clark Y instead of 6% RAF 15; and the wings are banded on. All this emphasizes that the ship is a sport model. A glance at the plans will show that she is quite lightly built. So if you're a lousy flier, get in some practice, and if you're between average and ace. please don't add excess weight by beefing her up, as you'll ruin the performance. She's strong enough to stand up to anything in the air, and flexible enough to survive many a rough landing. Mine has had hundreds of flights, and even more landings as I like doing 'touch and go's', but I'll say a word or two about flying technique later.
My Gypsy's color scheme is that of Amy Johnson, and you shouldn't have too much difficulty finding an attractive scheme. In fact, I never let the absence of a good scheme prejudice my choice of subject. If diligent research is fruitless, then I merely paint the ship the scheme I'd have put on the real one!
CONSTRUCTION NOTES :The fuselage is a simple box structure, with all sheet sides just like the full size ship, and the only complicated part is the engine cowl. The empennage employs an interesting structure, which is light and strong. The wings are cantilevers, but the interplane struts usefully share out lifting loads, even though the elastic wing bracing is only decorative.
Fuselage: Choose light balsa, but not brittle stock. The diagonal joint between the cowl sides and fuselage, and the narrowing of the cowling towards the nose, mean that the ply cowl sides need to be pre-twisted as shown on the plan - a simple task, but best done first so that the jigged sides can be drying out while you do something else.
Contact glue F1A to F1, and doublers D1, and D2 to the fuselage sides. Cement 1/8 square and 1/8 x 3/16 balsa longerons and uprights to the sides. Glue P1 in place. Join the fuselage sides with F11-1A and F2A, ensuring squareness, also gluing in place the cabane supports S1, and the 1/2 x 1/8 balsa cross braces at front and rear of lower wing seat. When set, join the tail end with the 1/4 in square tail post, epoxying the tail skid in place. Fit all formers and 1/8 square bottom cross braces.
Bind the cabane struts in place, carefully incorporating the slight forward slope of the main 'verticals' then solder the lop joints, epoay the binding and, finally, add the top decking. Glue the ply cowl sides, M1 and C3 together, butt-joining the lot in place on F1. First check the twist in the cowl sides by dry pre-assembly. If wrong, re-soak with more or less twist as needed, Make the top cowling referring to the photos (but not to the paint finish!). Fit the ply bottom piece, bottom 1/16 sheet and check the tank fining. Add the 1/2 in sheet stab seat.
Empennage: The sandwich method used is really strong, but my model needed 1 ounce of tail weight to optimize the CG position. Therefore, very light 1/4 in sheet may be in order, provided you don't nylon cover or tar it. Remember the tail moment is long - however, I like built-up tailplanes, so have no difficulty in selecting my method!
Butt-join 1/32 sheet to the full width of thee stab or fin/rudder and cut out the complete outline in one piece. Build the outline, spars, and 'ribs' on one side, pinning down flat until dry, then turn the job over and repeat the process, Sand to section, then marvel at how light, yet stiff the surfaces are. Separate the moving surfaces.
Wings: I once read that wood is a poor building material when used in compression, but good in tension. Shortly afterwards. I had 3 out of 4 top spars on one side of a small bipe collapse in compression after a particularly hairy snap maneuver. Luckily, the bottom spars didn't collapse, so I was able to have another 3 flights before going home! However, I now make the top spars of my bipes of spruce, instead of balsa, and of bigger section than the bottom spars. Other people solve the strength problem by using I-beams, D-boxes, or veneered foam..."
Direct submission to Outerzone.
"Hi Steve - Here is Gordon Whitehead's D.H. Gypsy Moth from RCM magazine issue 08-78. Included is the full text and photos."
Update 19/07/2017: Added second article (Radio Modeller June 1977), thanks to RFJ.
Supplementary file notes
Plan file includes RCM magazine article.
Also second article, Radio Modeller June 1977.
Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)?
That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction
De_Havilland_DH.60_Moth | help
see Wikipedia | search Outerzone
ScaleType: This (oz5210) is a scale plan. Where possible we link scale plans to Wikipedia, using a text string called ScaleType.
If we got this right, you now have a couple of direct links (above) to 1. see the Wikipedia page, and 2. search Oz for more plans of this type. If we didn't, then see below.
ScaleType is formed from the last part of the Wikipedia page address, which here is https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/De_Havilland_DH.60_Moth
Wikipedia page addresses may well change over time.
For more obscure types, there currently will be no Wiki page found. We tag these cases as ScaleType = NotFound. These will change over time.
Corrections? Use the correction form to tell us the new/better ScaleType link we should be using. Thanks.
Do you have a photo you'd like to submit for this page? Then email firstname.lastname@example.org
User commentsNo comments yet for this plan. Got something to say about this one?
Add a comment
* Credit field
The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.
This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
© Outerzone, 2011-2022.
All content is free to download for personal use.
For non-personal use and/or publication: plans, photos, excerpts, links etc may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Outerzone with appropriate and specific direction to the original content i.e. a direct hyperlink back to the Outerzone source page.
Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site's owner is strictly prohibited. If we discover that content is being stolen, we will consider filing a formal DMCA notice.