Gotha Taube LE4 (oz5058)

 

Gotha Taube LE4 (oz5058) by Bill Stroman 1976 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Gotha Taube LE 4. Free flight scale model for electric power.

Quote: "Winner of Free Flight Scale at the recent Flightmasters' all-electric contest, this model illustrates the fact that electric power for model airplanes has completely arrived. Gotha Taube, by Bill Stroman.

While looking through the advertisements in the back of a model magazine last year, l came across a drawing of a Taube. As this was a pretty good drawing, and the ad promised more of these, I wrote for the catalog. Much to my surprise, Mr Zasadney had Taubes listed that l had never heard of! Well, in less time than it takes to say 'Gothaer Waggonfabrik AG' I mailed away for about twelve of his 1/72 scale drawings. These drawings come in two scales, 1/72 and 1/24, and you also get a written description of the aircraft and, if known, the dimensions. This is my first model made from Zasadney's drawings, but I'm sure it won't be my last!

I chose this Taube because of its clean (for a Taube, that is) lines, and its character. It has a little more wing area than Astro. Flight recommends for it's 02 Electric power unit, however it's lighter than the 12 ounce maximum that they set. This is my third electric subject, and I do like this mode of power. First, its clean - no fuel to soak plane, rigging, and modeller. Second, it's fun to just flip a toggle switch to start it - no cut fingers from the props, no flooding, no priming, and no adjusting a needle valve just behind a
20,000 RPM propeller. Third, it's quiet - one can fly this in the city without annoying the residents nearby. All in all, there's a lot going for electric-powered free flight scale.

Although this model may look hard to build, it really isn't. I drew the plans, built the model, and traced the plans for the magazine in about 25 evenings. Let's start building by beginning with the fuselage as everything else must attach to this anyway.

FUSELAGE: Trace and cut the 1/16 sheet sides from the side view on the plans. These go from the tailpost to under the radiator shell. Now trace and cut the bottom sheet from the top view on the plan. Cut out all the formers and the fire wall. Before installing these, you should finish off the instrument panel. Stain the balsa with a water based wood stain. When dry, add three or more coats of clear dope to get a high gloss finish. Now, drill the four holes for the instruments. Use these holes as a guide to draw four circles on a piece of white paper. Using black ink, mark some numerals and needles on each dial face. Now, glue some cellophane to the back of the instrument panel, then your marked paper behind this. Cut some 3/8 diameter brass tubing to act as rims, polish them, insert into holes to act as rims. Makes a nice looking panel doesn't it? Cut a small piece of tubing from a Hot Stuff bottle and glue on as a turn-and-bank indicator.

Now glue the back of the two sides together and insert the bottom between them. Insert the rearmost former between the sides and glue the bottom piece up to that point, continue until all formers are in. Cut and glue the firewall in place, then the 1/4 x 3/4 vertical blocks that go in front of it. Now glue in place the horizontal shelf that the motor sits on. Cut and glue the 1/8 ply wing mounting boards to the inside of the fuselage, as shown, also fit the bat-tery in place, glue in the braces, then when dry remove the battery. Measure and cut the brass tubing for the undercarriage mounts and glue or epoxy in place.

Cut the top decking for the flat rear section (the grain of the wood should be crossways for easier bending) and glue this in place. Follow this with the rounded decking up to the rear cockpit, Now, butt join a sheet to this one (Hot Stuff is great for this type of joint, but be VERY careful as the drying time will not allow you to realign the shed!) and continue to the front of the forward cockpit. Cut out the holes For the front and rear cockpits, and sand everything smooth, Glue 1/4 x 3/8 balsa blocks from 'B' to 'C' flush with the former, just where the top of the hood will meet the screen on the sides, as additional support for the nose.

MOTOR INSTALLATION: Mount the motor on the shelf with an aluminum clamp, being sure that the shaft will clear the radiator shell. Solder lead wires from the motor and bring them back to the forward cockpit. Following the wiring diagram in the Astro Flight box, complete the wiring and install the switch, charge receptacle, and battery. Charge the unit and test run it to see if you did everything right. Powerful little devil, isn't it?

Install 1/16 decking from forward cockpit to the end of the 1/4 x 3/4 blocks on the firewall. This will be a butt joint again, to the decking behind it. Dope all surfaces with at least three coats of clear dope. Dope inside of motor compartment black.

SHEET METAL WORK: I obtained my aluminum sheet from a print shop. These are used on drums for printing and usually have some printing on them. I was able to get six of these used sheets just for the asking, however, the print shop owner was an ex-modeller and others may charge a small fee. The printing is easily sanded off with a 320 grit paper, then finish sanded with a 400 grit paper. Some polishing compound can be used after this to obtain a good bright finish.

Make the side pieces first, by laying the sheet next to the fuselage and scribing the outline on the metal. Cut the piece out with old scissors or small snips. Lay out the six louvers and cut the slots for them with an old X-acto blade. Using a stylus or rounded piece of wood, form each louver. Lay the sheet against the fuselage and mark where the holes for the louvers are on the wood, remove the sheet and paint this area black. Now, carefully line up the panel and hot-glue it to the wood. Repeat on the other side.

Mark the bottom panel the same way as the sides, but leave about 1/16 over-lap on both side edges. Glue to bottom and fold overlap onto sides with a burnishing tool (any hard, smooth object will do). Cut a small piece that goes between the side and the hood at the front, leave a 1/16 overlap at the rear of this and fold it inward to make a neat seam.

Make the hood panel with 1/16 overlap on both sides and install. Cut the forward air scoops from sheet, form them by rolling a dowel over the sheet until enough curve is made and glue to the hood.

The ship-type vents at the rear of the hood are sort of a problem. Mine were made of aluminum. One end of a 1/2 inch square stock was turned on my small lathe to a 3/8 diameter. Then the opposite end was hand-filed to shape. To improve the looks, and also to lighten it, 1/4 inch holes were drilled from both ends, and the outside was polished. The hood then had two 3/8 diameter holes drilled in it, and the vents glued in place. If this seems like a lot of work, or you don't have a small lathe, make the vents of balsa or pine, seal and paint them silver, and they will still look great.

The radiator sheil is something rather different from most models. It can be made from a block of balsa, sanded, and painted. The one on the original model was made from .02 aluminum sheet..."

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Gotha Taube LE4 (oz5058) by Bill Stroman 1976 - model pic

Datafile:
  • (oz5058)
    Gotha Taube LE4
    by Bill Stroman
    from Model Builder
    June 1976 
    46in span
    Scale Electric F/F
    clean :)
    all formers complete :)
    got article :)
  • Submitted: 17/11/2013
    Filesize: 577KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: algy2
    Downloads: 2536

ScaleType:
  • Etrich_Taube | help
    see Wikipedia | search Outerzone
    ------------
    Test link:
    search RCLibrary 3views (opens in new window)


    ScaleType: This (oz5058) is a scale plan. Where possible we link scale plans to Wikipedia, using a text string called ScaleType.

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Scaling

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