Stinson Voyager by Earl Stahl. Scale model for CO2 power.
Quote: "This scale job has CO2 power - you spend your time flying, not fussing. Stinson Voyager, by Earl Stahl.
AMONG the fastest selling planes of the day are the well known Stinson Voyager and Flying Station Wagon. Reasons for this extreme popularity are numerous. Of all the larger personal planes they are among the least expensive to purchase and operate. Further, they can be flown with ease.
But probably the most important is their wide usefulness. With the ability to carry 4 passengers in comfort, or a pilot and a sizable quantity of cargo, they serve as family plane or business craft of great utility. As compared with some of its competitors, a Stinson is fairly slow since it cruises at close to 120 mph. Yet this is somewhat offset by the fact that it can be flown by pilots of limited experience into and out of any field that can be called an airport. This is not always possible, of course, for planes of higher stalling speeds and more critical flying qualities. In this connection the writer can volunteer the opinion, after flying Voyagers, that just anyone who can fly any other type of plane safely can master the Stinson with ease.
Our model is of the latest Stinson which features larger tail surfaces to enhance the plane's inherent stability. The Voyager's configuration lends itself well to the requirements of a good model, particularly one powered by an expansion-type re-ciprocating engine such as this one has. We used one of the Herkimer OK CO2 engines in the test ship and were highly pleased with the results.
Light weight, so long as it is consistent with strength requirements, is always important whether it be in the creation of a giant transport or bomber, or a mere model, and our Voyager is no exception. Since the carbon dioxide capsule and motor unit weigh considerable, the airframe must be fabricated with extreme care to keep the gross weight close to 5 oz.
Construction of the model is really quite simple and no difficulty should be experienced if drawings are studied and the text read before starting. Balsa wood is used throughout and regular model airplane cement is the adhesive. You will Want a model that is a treat to behold whether it is on the shelf or on the wing, so assure this by putting your best effort into the task.
Since assembly of most parts can be accom-plished more easily over full size drawings, the magazine page layouts should be doubled. This is accomplished by stepping off each dimension twice using dividers. One-half inch grid is imposed over many of the curved parts to ease the job of enlarging them. (See articles on 'Scaling Plans,' Oct and Nov 1947 issues of MAN).
Construction is logically begun with the fuselage. It consists of an underframe about which formers and stringers are mounted to derive the scale ap-pearance. Build the 2 sides of the underframe first from 3/32 sq strips using the plan as an assembly jig. (The frame is shown lightly shaded.) Assemble these sides one atop the other and then, when dry, separate and rejoin them with 3/32 sq members as indicated by top view. The mount for the stabilizer and rudder is shown in perspective and it must be placed with accuracy; material for it is hard 3/32 sheet cut into strips of the right width. Formers are cut from 1/16 sheet balsa and they are cemented to their respective positions.
Since the wing's centersection becomes an integral part of the fuselage, it should be assembled at this time and then attached to the fuselage. Just forward of bulkhead A is a 1/8 in plywood bulkhead for mounting the engine; its shape is identical to A's. Drill mounting holes for the engine and firmly cement No 3-56 nuts to the backs of the holes to enable installation and removal of the engine..."
Update 14/01/2019: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
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This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
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