Gyro Glider (oz4856)

About this Plan

Gyro Glider. Gyro-glider model design.

Quote: "Our enthusiasm for a gyro-glider was stimulated by the fact that we had seen or heard very little about such a variation on the autogyro. Possibilities were great. Having had some experience with gas- and Jetex-powered autogyros, we did not anticipate trouble with such a gyro-glider. But what surprises were in store! Having completed the model, we ran into many disturbing problems, which required all kinds of modifications, before the model stable and performance satisfactory.

The first problem was structural and required building a stronger fuselage, and using a stronger rotor assembly Right, increase washout or negative tip angle. Left turn, vice versa. All wood, no paper. to minimize the flexing of the rotors and to eliminate tail flutter. Needless to say, these primary changes made our first test session a disappointment. However, from that time things got progressively better. Successive testing resulted in modifying the fin and stab assemblies, which were previously a little too large. Towing the model, which at first proved inconsistent, soon improved through successive flight tests and modifications.

One important factor in a good gyro design is a freely rotating rotor assembly with as little friction as possible. This is even more important in a glider because of the absence of a propeller, which can he utilized to help spin the rotors faster. The arrangement shown is perhaps as good a combination of simplicity and efficiency.

Construction. Begin with the rotor-mast assembly. The rotor mast itself is bent from .072 in dia. wire and recessed into a 3/32 in sheet-balsa center. The pylon sides and fairing are then cemented to it and the sheet balsa fairings are also added. This arrangement takes abuse and holds together very well.

Cut out the main part of the fuselage from 3/8 in hard sheet balsa, also the cabin and pylon fairings. Cement the basic profile together before attempting to do any shaping. When dry, make a cut out at the nose and inset approximately one ounce of ballast in the form of lead or some other heavy metal. Then cement the nosepieces in position. When the assembly has thoroughly dried, trim down the entire structure using a modeler's knife, smooth-sanding to complete.

Construction of the cambered stabilizer may be a new experience for you, but should not be too difficult. Begin by cutting out the stab ribs which serve to maintain the camber and act as stiffeners. Select 1/16 in medium sheet balsa for the stab, that has a moderate amount of flexibility, sufficient enough to take the shallow curve without undue strain. Cut out the flat outline, following approximately 1/16 in for the curve..."

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