Nieuport-Beech Bostonian (oz4789)
About this Plan
Nieuport-Beech Bostonian. Rubber model.
Quote: "This model was unnamed until after several people had seen it fly up at the Mile Square flying site in the Los Angeles area. I don't know who came up with the name but the concensus was that it looked a little like a Nieuport and a little like a Beech, hence the name.
The model has been flown both indoors and out and does well in either arena. However, if your indoor site is the typical high school basketball court gymnasium, a drag flap of about half a square inch of area is advised under the tip of the top wing that you want it to turn toward. Indoors a loop of 3/16 rubber twice as long as the motor has worked. Outdoors it was flown with a loop of 1/4 rubber twice as long as the motor base, and it proved to be a spec-tacular climber. Flight times outdoors of over a minute are usual, and a half dozen flights have exceeded two and a half minutes (these were thermal enhanced of course).
The required fuselage box for Bostonian is 1-1/2 x 2-1/2 x 3 inches. In this model it was placed with the long dimension vertical because a large gap between the wings was thought desir-able.
The first vertical tail designed turned out to be too small, so a larger one was designed and proves to be just right. (I note that I installed the new vertical on my model backwards so that the trailing edge is where the leading edge was meant to be. As a result, the tip slants. I would like it better the way it is drawn, but its flying characteristics won't change, and it is cemented on securely, so.
The center of gravity is shown on the side view (the little black and white circle between the struts). The model required some modeling clay ballast at the tail to achieve this position when flying indoors because of the lighter motor, but no ballast was required when flying outdoors because of the heavier motor.
Diagonal rib structure was used for the flying surfaces to eliminate the tendency for warps to develop and has worked quite well. Except for this structural characteristic, the model follows very standard construction methods. The tail surfaces are one-sixteenths of an inch thick and are built directly over the plan. When they are dry, remove them from the plan and sand the leading and trailing edges half round. Cover both sides of the tail surfaces with Japanese tissue.
The tip ribs and the root ribs of the wings are shown on the side view of the fuselage. Cut these from firm 3/32 sheet balsa.
The bottom wings each require seven diagonal ribs of 1/16 sheet balsa which are cut to match the pattern shown just forward of the vertical tail. They also require one straight rib out from the same stock.
Pin the leading and trailing edges to the plan and cement the straight ribs in place. Then, carefully trim the front and back of the diagonal ribs to install them between the leading and trailing edges. Make sure the edges remain parallel while the diagonal ribs are being fitted and cemented in place. When the wings are dry, remove them from the plan and shape the leading and trailing edges to match the airfoil shown on the side view, 320 sandpaper is ideal for this task. Use a sanding block to support the sandpaper.
The top wings are constructed a little differently from the bottom wings. I use the sliced rib technique, and all the sliced upper rib caps are glued in straight ahead. There are 1/16 square bottom caps which are also straight ahead beneath all the top caps. In addition, 1/16 square diagonals are used be-tween the leading and trailing edges of adjacent ribs. Also the top wing has a 1/16 by 1/8 spar..."
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User commentsLove this plane! Flown it a lot indoors and out. 3/32" for indoors and double that for outdoors. Been repaired a bit but I still have it flying after 5 yrs.
Dorme - 22/10/2020
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