Zippy (oz4628)

About this Plan

Zippy. Control line stunt model.

Quote: "Best features of the Goodyear planes and Team Racers are combined in this stunt model with the accent on appearance - By AUBREY KOCHMAN.

Upright poisition of engine makes for easy starting. Fuselage built around simple crutch with balsa block for underside. Designed for engines from .19 to .29 displacement.

We've no quarrel with 'cigar box' fuselages and 'barn door' wings for U-control stunt contest work, but now and then we like to fly a stunt job that resembles a full-size ship. Zippy will take an Ohlsson 23 or 29 nicely.

Start with the landing gear; make it in one piece if you can of 24ST dural. Bolt to 3/32 in. plywood platform with long bolts. Carve bottom fuselage block to top-view shape; cement gear in place. Add fuselage formers, then fuselage sides with cut-outs for wing and stab (watch that zero incidence). You can score the sides for bending at former #5. Cement engine mounts in position. While fuselage is drying, cut out stab and elevator; cement rudder in position.

Carve bottom fuselage block to side-view shape and round off; then attach stab with elevator. Mount bellcrank and hook up pushrod. Split 3-inch sheets of quarter-grain stock for the 1 1/2in wide leading and trailing edges. Make rib templates #1 and #8, sandwich rib stock together and sand to shape. Wing halves are made separately; install lead-out wires before inside panel is cemented in place. Dihedral is 1/2in under each wing. Plywood gussets and wing supports come next, then center section sheets.

Cut turtle deck to shape. Wet top surface and give underside coating of cement. When cement dries it will curl sheet; two to three coats, each properly dried, should provide proper shape. Cut rudder slot, glue in place. Add soft balsa block at back and carve to fit. Engine cowling sections between former #1 and #3, #4 and #5 are made same way as turtle deck. Split cowling section at top and hinge each side, add 1/16 x 1/4 piece under one edge as a jam.

Mount the engine with four 5/8in wood screws, offsetting the thrust line slightly to the outside of the circle. It is necessary to add an extension to the needle valve and this is easy if you use an Ohlsson - just solder a length of copper or brass tubing to the protruding end.

A flat 2in Froom stunt tank mounts directly behind the engine and lines up perfectly with the needle valve if a piece of 3/32 sheet is first cemented across the motor mounts."

Update 25/08/2013: Replaced this plan with a much clearer version at 400dpi, thanks to JJ.

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