Eagle (oz4612)

 

Eagle (oz4612) - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Eagle. Control line model. Aeroflyte kit No 101. Control line trainer to suit 2.5cc engines. Wingspan 750mm.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Planfile includes full build instructions.

Quote: "GENERAL BUILDING NOTES: Before you begin building it is important to study the plan carefully. A good flat building board will enable you to build quickly and squarely. This should ensure that your model will have no twists and warps. As needed remove each piece from its balsa wood sheet with the help of a sharp pointed hobby knife.

STAGE ONE: Former F2 has been diecut to accept the performed wire undercarriage. Epoxy glue F2 on top of F3 then place the undercarriage in the die cut slot and flood with epoxy, place F1 on top and clamp together. When dry cut out from the plan the drilling template and fix temporarily to the front of former assembly, drill as per plan making sure the u/c legs are angled forward.

Fit the radial mount to the assembly and epoxy glue the radial mount nuts in place. (Lightly coat the bolts with oil to prevent nuts glueing to bolts.) Trim bolts flush with nuts. NOTE: The radial mount must be drilled and tapped to suit your engine.

Before glueing the tank placement block 1 in position it is necessary to carve out part of the block to clear the bottom engine bolt and nut. Place the fuel tubing supplied firmly onto the tank feed pipe and cement the tank into position. A small piece of scrap balsa is placed between the tank and engine mount bolts to avoid puncturing the tank. When dry cement former F4 to the back of the placement block 1 as shown the top and side views.

STAGE TWO: Choose one fuselage side 2 only and drill two 3mm dia. holes where pin marked for the tank feed pipes. On the same side cut out the lead out circles where partly diecut. Glue the fuselage side to the front assembly making sure it is straight and square. (It may help to place the fuselage up-side down on the top view of the plan.) When dry glue the other fuSelage side to the assembly making sure the two sides are square. The assembly block 3 is then glued to the front of former F4 and on top of the fuselage pides, making sure it overhangs each fuselage side equally (approx. 11 mm) to suit the air scoop sides which will be added later.

Lightly sand the edges of the tailplane 4 round. The tailplane is then pos-itioned in the fuselage sides and glued. It is advised to once again place the model over the top view of the plan to ensure proper alignment of the ftwelage sides and tailplane.

Drill a 3mm hole in ply mount 5 where pin marked and make the control plate assembly as shown. It is important that the bolt is tightly screwed to tho ply mount but that the control plate moves freely in the bolt. Bend and fit the lead out wires and formed pushrod wire. The ply mount may now be glued to the fuselage with the lead out wires through the fuselage sides and the pushrod towards the rear of the model and under the tailplane. Lightly sand the elevator 6 and round the edges. Bolt the nylon control horn in the position pin marked on the underside of the elevator. Fit the end o,f the pushrod through the control horn, cut thin slots in the elevator and tailplane, push hinges into slots, but do not glue till the model has bOen tissued and painted (note: when finally glueing hinges in place, use white glue and when drying carefully wash out any excess glue from hinge pins). Thoroughly check the controls for free movement of at least 30° up and down.

STAGE THREE: The air scoop entry 7, exits 8 and spacers 9 can be cut to length from the 3 x 10 x 225mm balsa strips and glued in position (position is found by placing the air scoop 10 on the fuselage side and marking off). Cut out the area for tho lead outs on one air scoop side only and glue in position to the entry, exit and spacer strips. When dry glue the far side scoop in place.

STAGE FOUR: Glue the wing parts 11, 12 and 13 together as shown, weight or clamp to a flat surface and allow to dry. Trim each wing tip to the shape on the plan, also trim the front section of wing where shown (B—B). Sand the wing to the given profile and epoxy glue the ply lead out guide 14 to the wing. The cloth tape supplied is glued to the bottom centre joint of the wing. Glue the weight washer to the underside rear tip of the outer wing.

Make sure the wing is parallel with the tail plane glue to the fuselage sides where shown on the plan.

The 1.5mm top sheeting is glued in place working from the trailing edge of the wing to the rear of model, followed by the bottom sheeting. When dry sand sheeting flush with the fuselage sides.

Assemble the fin parts 15 and 16, glue and then clamp to flat surface till dry. The fins are then glued to the air scoop sides, flush to the end of scoops and resting on the tailplane.

STAGE FIVE: The nose section is now ready to block up. Start by shaping the top nose block 17 as shown in the plan top 'view to give clearance around your engine. Refer to the plan side and top views for block positioning. Glue the top nose block 17 and side cowl block 19 in position followed by the bottom block 18.

From the plan template cut out fill in block 20 and glue in position. The triangular gussets and scrap balsa are cut and fitted inside the nose sec-tion. When dry shape the nose in a faircurve from former 1 to line up with a 52mm nose spinner.

FINISHING Sand the entire fuselage smooth at this stage, having removed engine and mount before sanding. Apply one coat of dope to the model. It is advisable to paint the inside of the engine bay with epoxy resin to prevent fuel soak-ing into the balsa structure.

The method of applying the final finish depends on your own choice, One method is to cover the entire model with Aerokote or a similar film follow-ing the manufacturer's instructions.

If you wish to paint the model, cover the model with tissue by cutting sections of tissue roughly to shape of the part to be covered and brush dope through the tissue so that it glues to the airframe. Smooth out wrinkles in the tissue and apply a final coat of dope. Finally apply two coats of fuel-proof enamel. (We recommend Aerogloss paint.) Re-assemble the model and recheck working parts.

Fit the wheels provided with the plastic wheel retainers, fit and epoxy the canopy in place. The water transfers can now be applied. Roughly cut out each transfer from its sheet. Immerse one transfer at a time face up in luke warm water (to avoid becoming brittle) and wet completely. Lay the transfer face up on newspaper until the transfer slides freely on its emulsion. Locate position on the model. Using a wet cloth work bubbles from the centre to the sides. Once all air bubbles have been removed, wipe all emulsion from the transfer using a cloth with fresh vIzater. Leave to dry for 24 hours. A light spray of clear varnish will seal the transfers perma-nently.

Balance your model by adding weight if needed until the balance point on the plan is obtained.

NOTE: As flying skills increase, your model can be converted to a basic stunt trainer by moving the balance point back 25mm and raising the push rod to the top of the nylon control horn. "

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Eagle (oz4612) - model pic

Datafile:
  • (oz4612)
    Eagle
    from Aeroflyte (ref:101)
    30in span
    IC C/L Trainer Kit
    clean :)
    formers unchecked
  • Submitted: 15/07/2013
    Filesize: 984KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: tyro185
    Downloads: 2180

Eagle (oz4612) - pic 003.jpg
003.jpg

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* Credit field

The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.

Scaling

This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.

 

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