S-Tee - Radio control sports model, for 2/3 channels and 1/2A power. The S-Tee was a shoulder-mount version of the more successful parasol layout Q-Tee (oz1350) design. Wing area 252 sqin. AUW 18 to 24oz. Kitted by Airtronics.
Quote: "A Half-A powered, shoulder wing version of the popular Q-Tee, designed for sport flying. S-Tee by Lee Renaud.
The S-Tee is a shoulder wing version of the popular Q-Tee (oz1350) design published in the January 1976 issue of RCM. The general airframe is almost identical to that of the 0-Tee which means that con-struction is very simple and rugged.
The shoulder wing layout provides a larger equipment compartment, making 3-channel operation feasible. The S-Tee is an intermediate model which offers a step-up in performance over the Q-Tee. The Cox Medallion .049 with throttle plus a one or two ounce tank permits easy touch and go's as well as providing extended engine runs. The model is so simple that we encourage you to try modifying the design if you want more acrobatic performance. We have built models with the dihedral reduced to 50% of that on the plans, using rudder control as well as straight wing versions with 5/8in wide strip ailerons cut from the trailing edge. Both flew well, but are not recommended for the beginner.
If you have read this far and think that the S-Tee is the model to introduce you to the sport of R/C, send to RCM for a copy of the full size plans of the S-Tee (see page 187 for plan ordering instruc-tions). Then visit your local friendly hobby shop with a copy of the materials list and select everything you need. While you are waiting for the full size plans, study the photos, instructions, and magazine plan to completely familiarize yourself with the building sequence. This will pay off later when you start to build.
Note that in addition to the materials required to build the S-Tee, you will need a few tools, supply items and a work surface. For this size airplane we recommend an inexpensive 24 x 36 inch wood drafting board as an ideal work surface. It is flat and true, easy to push pins into, and can be easily picked up and stored if you are working with limited space. Alternately a sheet of Celotex or similar material makes a good surface. You should have a model knife and/or single edge razor blades, a razor saw, metal straight-edge, pliers, small hammer, and a hand drill available. A few hardwood sanding blocks, assorted grades of sandpaper, straight or tee-pins and masking tape will also be required. The type of adhesives used are largely a matter of personal choice. Wil-hold Aliphatic, Titebond, and similar glues are excellent for general construction. Hobbypoxy Formula 4 or Devcon 5-Minute Epoxy are recommended for the fuselage formerside joints, and the wing center joint. We used Hot Stuff en-tirely to build our own prototypes as we feel the time and weight saved is well worth the additional expense. Just be sure to follow the warnings on the bottle and make sure all joints fit tightly.
When the plans arrive, we suggest that you cut out all parts required to build the airframe. Bend the landing gear to the pattern shown on the plan. To cut the wing ribs. we suggest making two templates of 1/16 ply and pinning eighteen 3/32 x 7/8 x 7-1/8 in balsa rectangles between the ply templates. The resultant sandwich can be shaped to contour, notched, then separated to provide the ribs. We find that preparing a per-sonalized kit in this manner reduces overall assembly time and gets the model completed quickly.
CONSTRUCTION The construction sequence described, progresses from the most simple steps through more complex building requirements. If this is your first model, we suggest you follow the sequence shown. The advanced modeler will, of course, ignore all instructions anyway..."
Update 21/11/2016: added article, thanks to RFJ.
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