Oily Bird (oz4589)

About this Plan

Oily Bird. Free flight design for beginners by Frank Ehling, from the 'For the Tenderfoot' series of American Aircraft Modeler, 10/68. For Cox .020 power.

Quote: "Oily Bird. A natural follow-up to the AMA's popular Delta Dart (oz7931) design, Oily Bird is an ideal, first-time power model. By Frank Ehling.

WHETHER young, old, a novice or just inexperienced, you will discover that Oily Bird is easy to build and fun to fly. What is meant by beginner or novice? Maybe you've made a hand-launch glider or two, or perhaps you have built some rubber-powered models like the Delta Dart (see AAM April '67 issue) and flown them successfully. That qualifies you as a novice. Little experience is really needed to get this bird in the air. Make Oily Bird your first, flyable power model. You'll be thrilled by its wild performance. Your contribution is small - just a little time and effort.

Where to start? Buy the building supplies and the necessary hardware first (a material list gives the quantities). During your second hobby shop visit, get the Cox .020 Pee Wee engine, starting battery and connecting cord, a couple of props and fuel.

Now, about the materials you'll be using. Balsa wood is strange stuff. It can vary in weight probably more than any other wood. Generally, the heaviest pieces are the strongest and stiffest. For Oily Bird, ask the hobby dealer for medium-weight or medium-hard wood. If you make the selection, avoid pieces that are flimsy, but don't pick those suitable for yard-sticks either! And don't leave a batch of fingernail dented balsa behind.

Any white glue will work - Titebond was used on the original. It dries quite quickly, is strong and can be sanded.

The Jap tissue for Oily Bird's covering is available in several bright colors. Use two or three for a wild color scheme. By getting color this way - only clear dope will be needed to attach the tissue and give it a gloss finish. Pick a butyrate type of dope as it is fuel-proof and won't be harmed by any spilled fuel.

Construction: Find a flat building board (Celotex, soft white pine or even plywood will do), tape down the plan and cover it with a protective sheet of plastic or waxed paper. Otherwise the glue will stick to the plan.

Following the steps given on the plan, build the fuselage and the fin together. Use straight pins - steel ones, as the brass kind are too soft to hold the wood strips to the board. Pin right through the strips. In making the pointed tips, cut the strips so they will meet: pin down: trim a triangular filler block to shape, coat with glue and install. A strong joint results. Add the solid canopy at this time.

Work on the stabilizer as the fuselage and fin dry. Note that the trailing (rear) edge is one piece. Also make sure that the two center pieces are spaced just far enough apart to accept the 3/16 thickness of the fuselage..."

Supplementary file notes

Article pages, text and pics, thanks to Gene. Quote: "Somehow I found the time and got my scanner working again. The attached file is five pages and contains both the construction article and the drawing."

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