Cessna Skymaster (oz4566)
About this Plan
Cessna Skymaster. Radio control scale model for .30 to .40 engines. Merco .35 shown. Scale is 1/6.
Quote: "Construction of the Skymaster: Begin construction with the horizontal stabilizer. Stack all the ribs (S-3) together and carefully drill the hole shown for the vinyl pipe (which houses the rudder interconnect). Cover that portlon of the plan with waxed paper and pin S-2 in place, next glue and pin the S-3 ribs in place. Finally, slide a scrap 3/16 or 1/4 in square strip under the front end of the rids to support while pinning in place.
Now, carefully glue the S-1 in place and double check the alignment by sighting along the structure from either end, when dry, remove from the plans and cover both top and bottom simultaneously (to prevent warps) with 3/32" balsa sheet. Hold the sheets secure with tape and pins. While that drys, glue the S-5 tips to the S-4 elevator and secure with tape. When both structures are dry, remove the tape and spot glue the elevator in place on the S-2 stabilizer trailing edge.
Take the time to carefully study all the isometric drawings which have been provided to illustrate details. Don't hesitate to refer to these while actually gluing parts together, especially when you don't understand clearly what must be done. While referring to the fuselage drawings, set all the applicable parts aside and check them for trial fits (with each other not the plans).
Begin fuselage construction with the fuselage sides. Epoxy the plywood doublers in place and add the 3/16 square balsa longeron. Make one left side and one right side. Carefully mark the location of bulkheads F-1 through F-12. While these assemblies dry, carefully measure and draw the vertical center lines on each fuselage bulkhead. Next, referring to the fuselage sideview, carefully epoxy the two engine mounts together using the EM-1 , 2 and 3 parts. Glue former F-3a and F-3 together, drill and mount the nose gear bracket.
Assemble and align the fuselage side, formers (F-1 through F-12) and engine mount assemblies including EM-4, 5, 6 and 7. Use tape and pins to hold securely and insure o the entire assembly 15 aligned and square before the glue dries. Use a 90° triangle and sight along the former centerlines. When completely dry, remove the tape and add all the 3/16 square balsa stringers carefully to prevent stress which might misalign the main structure.
Next, cover the belly, cowl tops and fairing area in front of the wing with the 1/8 sheet balsa planking and strips provided. You may find it easier to install the main landing gear support and fairing prior to planking the belly..."
Supplementary file notes
Instructions 12 pages.
Instructions, cockpit interior.
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(oz4566)
Cessna Skymaster
from Royal Marutaka (ref:14)
1977
77in span
Scale IC R/C Multi Civil Kit
clean :)
all formers complete :)
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Found online 29/06/2013 at:
http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_plans/details....
Filesize: 1759KB
Format: • PDFbitmap
Credit*: washburncreek
Downloads: 15824
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ScaleType: This (oz4566) is a scale plan. Where possible we link scale plans to Wikipedia, using a text string called ScaleType.
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User comments
Hello Steve , Enclosed is a photo [see more pics] of actual scale model, Cessna Skymaster. Based on a Royal Marutaka kit. Thanks,RB - 11/02/2014
The Skymaster I was referring to was built by a club member Paul Gordon-Brander and has twin 60s for power and a 77 inch wing [more pics 005].
AndyCoutts - 05/04/2017
First of all, thank you for the free download which I successfully downloaded and printed full scale on tiled paper. I would like to know how to identify which parts need to be plywood, especially for fuselage construction. Like F5, F7, F11, etc. Your kind advice would be very much appreciated.
SC - 21/01/2019
Usually when you see an end view of an item with two parallel lines on the inside of the item, it denotes 3-ply plywood. The plan view of model shows that almost every bulkhead is plywood.
rchopper56 - 21/01/2019
The plans don't specify the thickness of the wing ribs and there is no templates for the rudder or stab ribs?
Ken J - 18/06/2019
Ken, if you look at the centre of the tailplane, S3 is quite clearly shown.
As for the ribs - a ruler over the plan shows W1 to be 3/32", W2 to be 1/8"and the remainder to be 1/16"
Daithi - 18/06/2019
I bought the Royal kit and can help identify which parts are ply and what thickness, and answer any other questions.
Edward Case - 20/12/2022
I've made the modification to Electric. My Royal kit Skymaster [pics 006-012] will have 2x 1200 watt outrunner electric motors turning 13 x 6.5" props, (one clockwise pitch, one counter-clockwise) With 4 cell lithium polymer 5200 mah batteries (2)
Edward Case - 17/08/2025
Why would you have the motors run on opposite directions? That would make sense in a regular twin (motors in the wings) where torque of the motors would cancel each other. But in this application, you'd want both motors to turn in the same direction, the torque cancelling effect being taken care of by the fact that the rear motor is pointing backwards, which would reverse the rotation (as seen from the front). In this case, if you run one motor clockwise and the other counter-clockwise you'd double the torque effect to one side of the airplane.
RC Yeager - 18/08/2025
Edward Case said “ My Royal kit Skymaster [pics 006-012] will have 2x 1200 watt outrunner electric motors turning 13 x 6.5" props, (one clockwise pitch, one counter-clockwise)”
Sounds right to me…
K K Iyer - 18/08/2025
Well... I think I explained it adequately (or maybe not?). Now... if its just a matter of not having, or wanting (or maybe there's no pusher-prop version in that prop size), then I understand.
RC Yeager - 19/08/2025
The motors are back to back
Edward Case - 19/08/2025
Each motor is running counterclockwise, back to back, offsetting the torque. A tractor pitch on the forward, and a pusher pitch on the aft.
Edward Case - 19/08/2025
When you look in line with the airplane (front or back, doesn't matter), make sure the Props are turning in opposite directions! This is to cancel or at least reduce the rotation of the props airstream and make it straighter instead of accelerating the rotation with the backward prop. The motors torque will add up then, but an accelerated rotation of the airstream is worse when it hits the Stab or Fin.
You do not need a special marked pusher prop, just take regular left/right turning props. Mount one to the front (r) and the other to the back (l). When mounting on the backward motor, make sure you mount it "the other way round". The leading edge of the prop still has to be the leading edge when rotating. But you are mounting it now from the other side onto the shaft.
You also want to make sure, that the backward prop has a little less diameter (probably .5 or 1 inch, whatever you can get) but a higher pitch compared to the front motor. The air is already accelerated by the front motor and the back motor would want to accelerate it further. I can't give you a rule of thumb here, but you could use an Amps-Meter to check at which propeller pitch your motor runs best (at max speed with max allowed amps) to get the best results from the push-pull config. Of course when you read the amps, make sure the front motor is running his prop at max speed, too. Please regard all safety precautions when you do this test, as you now have to props turning at full speed and you may have to stand close by...
I hope this helps a little.
Dirk - 23/08/2025
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- Cessna Skymaster (oz4566)
- Plan File Filesize: 1759KB Filename: Cessna_Skymaster_oz4566.pdf
- Supplement Filesize: 4174KB Filename: Cessna_Skymaster_oz4566_instructions.pdf
- Supplement Filesize: 1062KB Filename: Cessna_Skymaster_oz4566_ins_cockpit_interior.pdf
- help with downloads
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