Sea Fury (oz4542)

About this Plan

Hawker Sea Fury. Radio control 1/2A pylon racer model.

Here is Jerry Holcomb's Sea Fury Pylon Racer from Model Builder magazine issue 05-75.

Update 04/04/2020: Added complete article, thanks to RFJ.

Quote: "Sea Fury Pylon Racer, by Jerry Holcomb. Modified Junior Falcon Half-A Pylon Racers are nice, but semi-scale pylon racers are nicer. The Sea Fury is both fancy - and fast.

This model was designed to be as light weight a racer as could be built within the RAMS Half-A racing rules without ignoring the rules' scale intent. With an all up weight (including a 225 ma battery) of 20 oz, the original design objective was met. Design complexity is somewhat higher than a simple 'box' type model, but the much better appearance of the finished model makes the extra work seem worth while. (Incidentally, the original won 2nd Place, 1/2A Pylon, at the 1974 Seattle RAMS Show.)

A fairly low aspect ratio wing planform was chosen to get a more favorable thickness/chord ratio than is possible with the Ace foam wing that a lot of 1/2A designs use. This is not intended as a statement for or against the Ace wing, it is just that the rules require a minimum 7/8 inch thickness, and a wider chord seems to work better.

Simple, squared-off wing tips were used for lightness and simplicity, and because I get lazy sometimes. Aerodynamic tip-losses because of the squared off shape could probably be improved by using some sort of end plate, but I have no proof of this. I do feel that this wing planform and airfoil handles well with no unexpected nasties.

I have not experienced surprise snap-rolls with the CG as shown on the plans, but be warned that a more rearward CG will indeed produce a nice rapid snap when you yank in the 'up' for a hard turn. I discovered this when I installed a 500 ma battery in place of the usual 225 ma pack! The model normally stalls straight ahead power-off, but of course, P-factor (or torque, if you wish) will cause a roll off to the left in power-on stalls. If you do encounter a snap-roll tendency with the CG as shown, you have too much control movement. I used the horn lengths shown on the plan and the inside holes on my Kraft KP2B receiver/servo output arms.

Wing construction is designed to be as light as possible. I would suggest that you use 1/16 sheeting for the wing if you can find some good light weight wood. I built the original during the last balsa shortage and had some trouble finding good 1/16 sheet, thus the 1/32 sheeting shown on the plans. Even using the 1/32 sheet will prove more than strong enough for any flight loads and most landings, provided you include the 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth in the finishing process. (Note that I said 'landings' and not 'controlled crashes.' I try to build my models to fly, not to be crash-proof. If you are looking for an over- built design to compensate for your hard landings, this one isn't for you.)

Tail surfaces are just medium weight 3/32 balsa sheet with a surfacing resin finish. It does get a little tricky installing Klett hinges (which I recommend) in the edge of 3/32 stock, but it can be done if you are careful..."

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