West-ner (oz4449)

About this Plan

West-ner. Radio control cabin model, 57in span for Cox Golden Bee .049 power.

The Elbert Weather's Westerner (oz959) design was first published in May 1938 MAN. This here is a later, reduced scale version, from Model Builder in 1976.

Quote: "West'ner, by Doc Mathews. A six-tenths scale model of Elbert 'Joe' Weathers' great camera plane, small enough for an .049, but big enough to thermal soar with an Ace Pulse Commander radio on rudder only.

In the memories of most old timers in this hobby, a few models of exceptional esthetic beauty stick out - one of the most graceful of these free flights of the pre-World War II Era was Joe Weathers' Westerner. Published in May 1938 Model Airplane News as 'a camera carrying model,' the poor photo quality failed to really show off the design to its best advantage, however, most of us took one look at the plans and fell eternally in love. In an era of some truly ugly, highly utilitarian designs; the 'Westerner' stuck out like a pretty girl in a crowd of boys. No insults intended, but most free flights of that time were designed only for the flying, not for the eyeing. Let's face it: Lanzo's Record Breaker (oz427) and the Powerhouse (oz5644) don't exactly display a symmetry of line that is esthetically
appealing.

For many years I have looked longingly at that old copy of MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS, thinking 'someday'. I even ordered a set of full size plans from John Pond several years ago. Great guns, that thing is big! Would you believe a 96 inch span and a fuselage 58 inches long? Since I still have three payments left on the Solarfilm covering for my Super Buc, I just couldn't ask the 'Lone ah Ranger' for more. But how about scaling a Westerner down 60%? It gives a more manageable size, it doesn't cost an arm and a leg for materials, it can use an .049 and an Ace pulse system, and it makes a darn cute airplane. I'm sure you must agree, so let's get building on yours.

GENERAL: All joints are glued with Titebond, Wil-hold, or equivalent. Epoxy is used for dihedral joints, firewall and landing gear. Cover plans with Saran Wrap or something similar, but not wax paper. Use spruce where specified, balsa will not be strong enough. Trace parts onto thin typing paper, use a straight edge for flat areas for accuracy, spray pattern with IM Sprayment, then stick onto wood and cut out. Peel the paper off and sand.

FUSELAGE: Pre-cut all fillers, bulkheads, etc, before beginning construction. In other words, make yourself a kit. Start by pinning 1/8 x 1/8 spruce longerons onto fuselage drawing. Pins should not go through the wood, but on either side. Glue fillers D-1 through D-4 in place (allow slot for C). Add vertical 1/8 x 1/8 balsa and diagonal 1/16 x 1/8 balsa, allow to set up, then repeat, building second side directly over the first. Allow the two sides to set at least 8 hours before removing from plans.

Separate the two halves by popping apart gently with a table knife. Trial fit B, C, and D into appropriate slots, then glue permanently. Invert and position wing rail on building surface, use a triangle and carpenters square to align
everything at 900 angles, holding posi-tions with masking tape, clothespins, and T-pins. When glue is set, mark the mid-line on the bottom (surface up) of A, C, and D. Place a straight edge on this mark and pull tail together at mid-line. D-4 is glued and held together, at rear, with clothespins, then cross members are fitted top and bottom. Diagonals are added to bottom, as are the cross sheet fillers.

The tail skid is formed and epoxied to ply filler, The landing gear is formed using a good vice-grip plier, and wrapped onto the ply cross pieces in front and rear. This assembly should be epoxied in place, and the thread wrapping smeared with the epoxy at the same time.

Allow glue and epoxy to set, then remove fuselage frame from surface. I prefer to leave the masking tape in place as long as possible to avoid loosening the cross pieces accidentally. Add deck formers, E, F, G, and H, stringers, stabilizer saddle, actuator mount, fire-wall, nose blocks; and sand fuselage to contour.

The actuator and radio gear should be installed temporarily, following Ace's instruction book. The torque rod is made up of 1/8 x 1/8 spruce, with wire bound on each end, then threaded from front to back before bending rear loop. Leave a considerable length on the rear wire, which will allow you to thread much more easily. Use torque rod bear-ing tubing (Ace) on cross piece and at the tail post. Position actuator on its mount and insert into loop on the torque rod. Check for free motion and position rear torque tube (I use Hot Stuff). Do not bend rear wire until final assembly..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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