About this Plan
Talon. Control line flying wing combat model. Span 32 in, Area 273 sq in, Weight 16 oz, length 17 in. For 2.5 - 3.5 cc engines.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 18/01/2020: Added kit instructions, thanks to JedBond.
Quote: "The Talon has been especially designed to suit the SMAE Rules for combat flying, which limit engine capacity to 3.5 cc (.21 cu in). Other rules concern the streamer and line dimensions which are detailed on the plan. The requirements of a model for successful combat flying include:
1. Quickness and cheapness of construction, in view of the high 'mortality rate' of this type of model in competitions.
2. High speed and good maneuvreability.
To satisfy the first point, a flying wing layout was chosen, being cheaper in materials and exceedingly quick to build. This kit contains almost all parts cut to length or die-stamped and by following the Quick Building Sequence faithfully, the model can easily be completed in 9 - 12 hours including covering. Secondly, the tail-less configuration has less drag and weight than wing-and-tail designs, resulting in higher airspeed for a given power. The maneuvreability of the model is governed by the balance point position and you are best advised to conform to the pos-ition on the plan, even if weight is required at nose or tail to achieve this.
Beginners to C/L flying can safely use a CG location as far forward as the leading edge of the wing, but on no account must the model be flown if the CG is too far back, regardless of the experience of the builder.
On opening this kit, inspect all the parts, identifying them with the plan and Building Sequence. Check that the bearer spacing on the two ply formers is correct for your engine and adjust if necessary. Drill one of the formers to take the tank lead-out. This former will be F1. The other will be F2. Drill the two bellcrank mounts (B1) to take the bell-crank fixing bolt (see plan). It will also be necessary to drill the control horn to take the horn fixing bolt.
QUICK BUILDING SEQUENCE:
1. Using plenty of cement (or better still, hardwood resin-type glue) fix engine bearers to F1. Slide the fuel tank into position from the rear, packing with scrap wood so that the tank lies exactly centrally to the bearers. Now glue F2. in place.
2. Drill bearers to suit engine, mount engine in place, solder-ing the bolt heads as shown on plan. This assembly is shown on the plan by the sketch marked 'STAGE 1.' Glue the fuselage sides to the formers and leave this assembly to dry thoroughly.
3. Mark the rear spar for the position of all the ribs and slide the ribs on to the spar, getting them all in the correct order. Pin them to the spar accurately but DO NOT CEMENT ANY OF THEM TO THE SPAR YET.
4. Pin the leading edge to the fronts of the ribs, and when satisfied that all ribs are parallel and vertical and that the wing is not warped, cement around all joints to the LE and spar.
5. Pin and cement both the 3/16 sq main spars into the wing. Follow with both trailing edge pieces, and once again check that the wing is not twisted.
6. Glue the lower B.1. into place between the two ribs W1. Install the pivot bolt and bellcrank, then add the upper B1... "
Update 30/09/2020: Added kit review from Model Aircraft, May 1959, thanks to RFJ.
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User commentsThis was my stunt trainer, very robust and manoeuvrable, it saw out two second hand engines, both died with bent crankshafts. I flew it for well over a year before selling it on and building a Commodore.
RichardMcDonald - 13/12/2015
I would love to build this plane but the plans do not have enough details for the parts. Is there any way to get more detailed information on body ribs and sheeting for the main fuselage. I would like to buy the kit but to America it is $100 for the kit and another $120 for shipping. Is there any way that you can help me out?? Thanks from a "limey" in the US. Mike Owens
Michael Owens - 25/08/2021
This one shouldn’t be too difficult to reverse-engineer the parts to build one. Luckily all wood sizes are given on the plan. I’d start with making all the ribs using the airfoil shown on the side elevation, cutting in from the edges as required for main spars, leading edge and leading edge sheeting. Outboard of W2 where it starts to taper you can trim the trailing edge to to length before adjusting the top an bottom contour of the rib to suit. It only needs to be close to work and if it has a pleasing curve like W1 it’s probably close enough but make sure the left and right examples of each rib match up to hedge your bets. Last the tapered ribs can be cut down for the trailing edge sheeting and from there you can probably get assembling. The fuselage is just a box aft of the firewall with a carved block cowl and top fairing. Just try and think a couple steps ahead as you build, you can absolutely do this.
Tim - 29/08/2021
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